May 30, 2018

Round Tour on the Palfries High Plateau above the Seez Valley (Sargans)

May 30, 2018 --  The Swiss are experts where their tunnels and trains, mountain trains and funiculars are concerned, and especially their cableways, which are everywhere and necessary to transport goods to villages and properties in high elevations where there otherwise might be no road access. It's also nice for us hikers to get into high alpine areas without first having to ascend 1000-2000 meters...

So we were very pleased a couple of years ago to find out that the "Palfries Cableway Association" opened a previously (since 1941) only-for-military-use cableway to the public in May 2016, a 3-km ride which accesses the Palfries High Plateau (previously part of the Sargans fortification) from the Seez Valley 1200 m below.

We had been planning to do that trip for the past two years, but because it was widely publicized at the time, it is a popular destination, and since the cable car carries only 8 people every 15 minutes, you have to reserve your time slot ahead of time. On the weekends it is almost impossible to find a decent time slot. So on this Wednesday morning, which dawned blue and cloudless, we decided short notice to head up there, as the Internet Calendar was showing very few reservations.

This turned out to be another successful outing, as we really encountered no one on our 14-km round tour which turned out to be part high alpine along a vertical line of craggy cliffs, and typical central Switzerland meadows and moor landscapes on the way back. And many views of Lake Walensee to the West, and the peaks of what is called Sarganserland to the Southwest. Ten days earlier we had hiked in the Weisstannen Valley across from here, into which we got the most stunning views from the Palfries Plateau.

Highlight of the day: We witnessed an avalanche, a huge piece of snow breaking off the top of a mountain and rushing down a narrow couloir. We were alerted to it by the massive noise it made. Nature really is mighty....


The Palfries upper plateau was part of the Fortress of Sargans properties

Palfries Cable Car, open to the public in May 2016, rises over 1200m right above the waterfall. Total trip is 3 km.

On the way up with the cable car looking NW to the Churfirsten mountain range
Up here we can look right into the Weisstannen Valley, which we walked out of 10 days ago. On the left is Mount Pizol (2,844 m), a popular hiking area

Just like a high alpine hike. My favourite.

The first gentians

The view behind us. At the back on the left is the road from the Palfries cable car station.

Down below is the moor landscape which was the return portion of our 14-km loop hike.
 
There were still many snow patches up here which we had to navigate
Entering the Sennis-Malun Nature Reserve

Our first view West across Lake Walensee

Here's where we had our picnic lunch, at the high alpine farmstead called "Malun"

Mount Gamsberg
 

We heard a loud rumble and saw a large piece of snow break off from the top of the mountain and flow down a couloir, sort of like a waterfall...

Mount Gamsberg before and after the avalanche

Heading back, we first have to make our way to the small building up on the hill ahead.

Filling up on Swiss Mountain Water

Lots of water along the way

Alp Castilu overlooking Lake Walensee and the Churfirsten Mountains.

Wonderful meadows at the border of the Sennis-Malun Nature Reserve

Another farm house

Looking across the valley at the Malun farmstead where we had lunch, and Mount Gamsberg on the left (where we saw the avalanche)

A different type of gentian. I love the blue flowers.
On our way back along the moor landscape. That mountain looks like a person lying down.

Wonderful rock formations on these fabulous cliffs.
 
Alpine flowers
 
The tiny Palfries cable car, which we also rode back down into the Seez Valley

Our 14 km hike around the Palfries upper plateau. Took us 4 hours and 30 minutes.

Our 14 km hike around the Palfries upper plateau. Took us 4 hours and 30 minutes. This is in Canton St. Gallen in Easter Switzerland near Sargans and the border to Liechtenstein.



May 27, 2018

Grand Canyon of Eastern Switzerland: The Ofenloch

Sunday May 27, 2018 -- We try to alternate our hikes: Sometimes down a valley, over a mountain pass, around a lake, or into a canyon.

After the valley hike along the Weisstannen Valley a week earlier, we decided on a canyon hike, also in the Eastern part of Switzerland but further North near the Alpstein Massif (Mount Säntis), although the area itself is also Canton St. Gallen. 

The canyon we walked into is called Ofenloch (translates to Oven Hole) because a large cave in the canyon wall looks like a pizza oven. The canyon itself is nicknamed "Grand Canyon of Eastern Switzerland", although I guess they can just find the largest "hole" somewhere and call it the Grand Canyon of "Something".

We started at the Schwägalp Pass just below Mount Säntis (a popular motorbike road) and headed West, mostly through forests and into the canyon. Although the canyon and its rather unstable-looking Nagelfluh (molasse) walls were impressive, my favourite part of the hike was after descending to the place we planned to get back on the bus, and we were there at 14:41 but even though a bus ran practically every hour at 41 minutes past the hour this was one exception, so we decided on another 1.5 km through a much more picturesque landscape to the next bus stop. Like it was meant to be!

Interesting information: The Necker River, a 32-km river which flows into the Thur River, has its source in this canyon.


Heading by train wth the Appenzeller Railway toward Mount Säntis

This is the winding road up to the Schwägalp Pass, a favourite of motorcyclists

Our 11 km hike starts at Schwägalp Pass below Mount Säntis and heads westward

What would any hike in Switzerland be without the cows

A final view of the Alpstein Massif and Mount Säntis before heading into the canyon

Heading into the impressive canyon with its vertical molasse walls

The trail was adventurous but not dangerous. Although the cable for handholds was snapped in two. Wonder how that happened?

The impressive Ofenloch Canyon

The impressive Ofenloch Canyon

I marvel always at how the trees can thrive on this stony terrain!

Stiles to ford the fences are fun

We had to exit the first part of the canyon before heading back into the second. This view is to the Toggenburg area of Switzerland. We stopped for lunch here.

Picnic lunch before heading back into the canyon

This was a very cool spot! You don't often get to walk behind the waterfalls

This pizza-oven-shaped hole gives the canyon its name: "Ofenloch / Pizza Hole"
After leaving the canyon we had to decide to walk uphill another 40 minutes, or down the mountain to the South. We chose the latter, as we'd already completed our goal.

When we got to the road, we saw that there was a break in the schedule, so we decided to walk to the next stop over....

The first thing we came across was a community-created frog pond. Also special.

I was especially pleased with our decision to walk the extra 1.5-km as this view behind us and the lush meadows we walked through were worth it.

At the final bus stop where we caught the bus back up to the Schwägalp Pass, we learned that there is a healthful sulfur spring just five minutes from here. A detour for another day maybe...

Back at the Schwägalp Pass, the futuristic summit station of the Säntis cable car glows in the afternon sunlight.
Back at the Schwägalp Pass, the futuristic summit station of the Säntis cable car glows in the afternon sunlight.

In total this trip was 11 km and took us a little over 4 hours (which includes time to "marvel")