On the Untersee near Lake Constance

Wednesday May 31, 2017 -- This was an easy hike with very little ascent, up North near the Rhine River because we knew the weather was good there. It's an area I enjoy visiting because to get there we go past the Rhine Falls and through Schaffhausen (always worth the ride) and it's an area where the German and Swiss borders are so convoluted that sometimes you cross the border several times, or at the very least you can look across the Rhine River at Germany while walking in Switzerland.

Our 11-km hike on the Swiss side of the River started in Mammern, whose location is not quite yet considered the Rhine River but rather a southern arm of Lake Constance called the Untersee (Lower Lake) which starts in Konstanz. The Rhine River flows into Lake Constance at the Eastern Side (Austria and Lichtenstein), and back out of the lake through this Lower Lake before heading westward to Basel.

The Rhine becomes a river again at Stein am Rhein (goal of our hike), a superbly attractive old town with fantastically painted houses, a place I've been to many times and which, interestingly enough, is a Swiss town on the North side of the Rhine surrounded by Germany. The day was still young and warm so we ended it with a 1-hour river boat ride before heading home. The boat travels back and forth between the two countries, picking up and dropping off mostly bikers riding the ever popular trails around Lake Constance.

Rhine River at Eglisau, Rhine Falls, and Schaffhausen

Start of our 11-km hike at Mammern train station

Restaurant in Mammern, Switzerland

Uphill through the forest to get a view of the lake

Pastoral land a bit inland from the lake

Heading to Hochwacht, the highest point of our hike (180 altitude meters above the lake)

From up here we had a couple of nice views of the Untersee (Lower Lake)

View Northeast from Hochwacht. Across the lake is Germany.

To the West, Stein am Rhein on the Rhine River

Back down closer to lake level we walk westward to Eschenz, and across the lake is Germany.

I had never seen these before, but apparently mozzarella is made from the milk of these water buffalos.

I felt like was was in Africa. Respect for the size of these beasts, but I thought they were cute!

A red kite. They are all over the agricultural areas here.

Approaching Stein am Rhein, which is in Switzerland, even though it's across the river, surrounded by Germany.

Stein am Rhein is very popular, usually these streets are packed with tourists.

The beautiful painted houses of Stein am Rhein.

Quaint town of Stein am Rhein

In Stein am Rhein we got on the boat and took a 1-hour boat ride on the Lower Lake

Stein am Rhein as seen from the Rhein River.

Stein am Rhein as seen from the Rhein River.

Relaxing for an hour on a boat ride on the Rhine River / Lower Lake

Boat ride on the Rhine River / Lower Lake. Lots of bike riders get on and off. At one point there were at least 50 bikes on the boat

 

Town of Berlingen where we got off and took the train back to Schaffhausen and home.

Town of Berlingen where we got off and took the train back to Schaffhausen and home.

From the Sertig Valley to the Highest Brewery in Europe

May 27, 2017 -- Finally the snow has melted enough that we can start heading into higher elevations like this hike which we did in Canton Graubünden (Grisons) near the very popular vacation and ski resort of Davos.

We started with a bus ride to the back of a very pretty side valley called the Sertig Valley, from where we walked along the mountain flank and then around the other side into the next valley ending in the village of Davos Monstein, location of Europe's highest altitude brewery. (Its tag line is "The Last Beer Stop before Heaven").

We got delayed two hours by the worst cast of stomach bloating and nausea I have yet experienced but I was determined to wait it out, having traveled 4 hours to get to our starting point. French fries usually do the trick, and luckily there was a charming (yet very expensive) restaurant right at the back of the valley. Or maybe it was the $8 cup of herbal tea. In any case, a short nap in the meadow later and we were ready to go.

End of May is a tricky time to hike at higher altitudes (in this case, 2000m), because the terrain might seem snow-free at first glance, but there are avalanche gullies in shady spots where the snow lingers and it becomes difficult to cross as the snow gets soft, especially across the streams. We wondered why no one else was hiking on the second part of this trail, probably for that reason, as we came across several such snow-covered sections (some with bridges missing) but were lucky to be able to cross them all without having to turn back. The mountain bikers who share the trail could not possibly have crossed here.

It was a great hike, 15 km in 4.5 hours, perfect weather, warm with a light breeze, and as usual panoramic views. The train ride home via Filisur and the Landwasser Viaduct was the "icing on the cake" (for lack of a better cliché) as it is always a treat to travel through the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Albula Valley.

Heading to Canton Graubünden along the Walensee Lake.

On the four-hour train/bus ride to our destination

Heading up the Sertig Valley by bus.

At the back of the Sertig Valley we have to stop for French Fries and Tea, as I'm not feeling well.

This cup of herbal tea was EXPENSIVE!!! (5.50 Fr.) but I like to think it helped relieve the stomach problems

Finally heading out on our hike after two hours' delay

The little village called Sertig Dörfli (Dörfli = Little Village)

Starting at the back of the valley, our trail northward has very little ascent, which is how I like it.

The bus has the right of way and the car must manoeuver backwards until it finds a place where the bus can pass.

All the scrubby bushes are Alp Roses. Later in the season the hillsides will be all pink.

The first of several avalanche remnants that we had to cross along the trail

Panorama views into the Sertig Valley to our East

At the furthest North section of the hill, a good view down on Davos.

Our 15-km hike started at the back of the Sertig Valley and then around the mountain to Monstein

And now the trail heads South again, on the other side of the hill.

View South into the Landwasser River Valley toward Filisur

This was the most difficult of our crossings, as the bridge was broken and the water was high and fast

First of the spring flowers: delicate crocuses

First of the spring flowers: crocuses, mountain pansies, anemones, gentians, alpine snowbells, and ??

There's a spot ahead where there is lots of snow on the trail

Ahead there is too much snow on the trail so we detoured through the Alp Rose bushes above the section.

Lots of adventure on this beautiful hike

I was a little worried about this one as the snow is over the stream and we might break through.

No problem crossing this section.

Just above Davos Monstein

 

Heading into Davos Monstein

 

Davos Monstein

 

The highest altitude brewery, Davos Monstein, on the left behind the chapel tower.

 

Second chapel on the outskirts of the village

 

Back down in the valley we head home along the Landwasser River to Filisur

The Zügen Gorge through which runs the Landwasser River

 

Famous Landwasser Viaduct on the UNESCO Albula Line. Always a fun experience

On this stretch we always pass the Sargans Castle, one of my favourites to photograph.