October 30, 2016

Hiking along the Irrigation Channels near Sierre

October 30, 2016 -- Canton Valais has less rain than other parts of Switzerland, and hundreds of years ago the farmers painstakingly dug channels, built up mountain flanks, and attached wooded flumes to vertical cliff walls at great risk in order to bring the water from the mountains to their meadows lower in the valleys. These channels go by the name of "Suonen" in German and "Bisses" in French. 

The area around Sierre was the origin of these irrigation systems in the 14th and 15th centuries. The trails along this extensive network of channels were originally used for maintenance of the water system, but have since been converted to hiking trails, although most of the channels are still in use.

After our day in the Val d'Anniviers on Saturday and overnight in the B&B in Mayoux, we started our day with a short walk along the Bisse St.Jean, a 3-km irrigation channel between the two towns of Mayoux and St.Jean. From there we took the bus out of the valley to Sierre and walked along the Bisse Neuf and Bisse de Varen above the beautiful vineyards of the Rhone Valley. It was another wonderful fall day for this 13-km, 3.5-hour walk, although for me a bit too chilly as most of it was through wooded areas. End of our hike was in the village of Salgesch, known as the home of the Grand Cru wine label and 30 wineries. 

We spent the night at a B&B in Mayoux, in the Val d'Anniviers

Before leaving the Val d'Anniviers, we had time for a 3-km walk along the St.Jean irrigation channel to the next town.


Walking in the Anniviers Valley to the next town of St.Jean

Along the St.Jean irrigation channel in the Val d'Anniviers



Along the St.Jean irrigation channel in the Val d'Anniviers. There was a freshly born calf lying on the trail. We reported it and it was reunited with its herd.


Leaving the Anniviers Valley, we look down on Sierre and the hill where we will do our day hike.


After coming back out of the Val d'Anniviers, we headed up from Sierre with the Funicular to the starting point of our hike, then walked first along Bisse Neuf, then Bisse de Varen, and descended through the vineyards of Salgesch, famous for its wine production. (Home of Grand Cru Label, with over 30 wineries)


Funicular from Sierre to Darnona

Across the Rhone Valley we can see where we hiked the day before, up high in the Val d'Anniviers

To the East, the Rhone Valley and the Vineyards of Salgesch

Our 13-km hike is mostly along the two irrigation channels "Bisse Neuf" and "Bisse de Varen"

Along the Bisse Neuf irrigation channel

Along the Bisse Neuf irrigation channel

All along the channels are sluices to control the water flow

View to Salgesch below, the goal of our day's hike.
First comes a steep descent through forests before reaching the vineyards of Salgesch.



This view into the Rhone Valley shows not only the beautiful vineyards with fall colours, but also a large expanse of virgin forest in the flat area below. This nature reserve is called the Pfyn Forest and is one of Europe's last large pine forests.

Vineyards of Salgesch

Those are BIG Ehringer bulls! (Don't want to meet them on our hike).

Vineyards of Salgesch

Vineyards of Salgesch

Vineyards of Salgesch
Vineyards of Salgesch


Back in the Rhone Valley: Above are two lines of trees marking irrigation channels. We walked along the upper one. 

Salgesch, home of 30 wineries 



October 29, 2016

Flaming Larches and 4000m peaks in the Val d'Anniviers

October 29, 2016 -- The Anniviers Valley (Val d'Anniviers) in Canton Valais must surely be one of the more beautiful and yet lesser known side valleys of the Rhône Valley. The atmosphere here is very family-oriented and it is a place where Swiss people tend to holiday, and is less known among foreign visitors. The valley is dotted with quaint little villages with lovely chalets and old stalls dating back to the 15th century. The ski area at the back of the valley (Zinal) is training ground for the Swiss Ski Team.




The ride up into the valley is an experience in itself, as the bus from Sierre in the Rhône Valley to Vissoie winds along a narrow road with several switchbacks and sections of road along incredibly steep ravines.

The High Trail from St. Luc to Zinal starts with a short Funicular ride to Tignousa, and then follows a very well maintained trail along the East side of the valley, passing several impressive man-made avalanche dams, and always with most fantastic views of the 4000+ mountains Zinal Rothorn and Dent Blanche at the back of the valley. A special treat because we did this tour in autumn: The yellowing larches give the impression of a landscape on fire, and the tops of the mountains are already covered in snow, providing a brilliant contrast.
This 17 km hike took us 5 hours to walk, and is one of the best I've done so far with one exception: The final 400m descent into Zinal was very steep and hard on the knees. Since it was too late to travel back home, we spent the night at a B&B near where we started; a lovely local family rents a spare bedroom to guests, and they were very interesting to talk to (chance to practice my French!)



17 km hike started with a ride up with the Funicular from St-Luc to Tignousa. We had our lunch just above the Hotel Weisshorn with a view of Le Toûno. From Zinal we took a bus back to Mayoux where we overnighted in a B&B. (The next morning we did a 3km walk to St.Jean before heading back out of the valley).


.... And here are lots more photos:
View into the Rhone Valley near Sierre on the steep winding ascent into the Val d'Anniviers

Steep winding ascent into the Val d'Anniviers
First glimpse South into the beautiful Val d'Anniviers

Historical structures in the village of St-Luc. From here there is a funicular to the start of the hike.
From St-Luc we can see below in the valley the village of Mayoux and our B&B

Funicular from St-Luc to Tignousa, where we start our 17-km hike.

Shortly after starting on our hike, we have to take a break on this bench to admire the view (and drink coffee out of our thermos)

From the bench we can see across to the Hotel Weisshorn, our next stop (for lunch)

Hotel Weisshorn, has its name from the white rock in this area.

View to the Rhone Valley at the junction... from here there is a 30-minute uphill climb to Hotel Weisshorn

The mountain behind me is called Le Toûno

Looking North that is the village of St-Luc from where we rode the Funicular to the start of our hiking trail.

The great trail goes along the east side of the valley. Below is Grimentz at the entrance to a secondary valley with a dammed lake at the back (Moiry)


This was where we had lunch, on the other side of the ridge, with a view of Le Toûno on the high plain of Tsa du Toûno 




Continuing South, there are always fantastic views behind us to the North, to the Rhone Valley.




The trail is very well-maintained and easy to walk. 




There are many impressive man-made avalanche dams along the way.



   

As we approch the back of the valley (about 4 pm) the village of Zinal below is almost in shadow. But up on the high trail we still have lots of sun and the most impressive views of the 4000m+ Alps in the background.






And as we descend closer to the tree line, the hillsides abound in European Larch, which are turning flaming yellow at this time of year, before they lose all their needles. The effect with the white-capped mountains is stunning.






End of the hike in Zinal, before taking the bus back to Vissoie / Mayoux to our B&B. It was pretty dark and cold by the time we got there.