Loop Hike from Schönengrund to Hochhamm Ridge in the Appenzell

(This post created on January 10, 2025)

Sunday December 6, 2015 -- We’re always looking for places to go where we can still do challenging hikes even now in the winter season. In the Appenzell where the mountains are not as high but the views are spectacular, we might still be able to find something like that. Especially because here you can be above the lowland fog as well! 

This 3½-hour round tour was suggested by the Appenzell Tourism Office and that’s why we ended up out here... Other than some chilly winds along the crest, we had the sun and views that we came for. From along this ridge we can see clear across to Lake Constance to the North, to the Alpstein Massif with Mount Säntis to the South, and even to Mounts Rigi and Pilatus past Lake Zurich to the West. 

At about the half-way point of the hike and the ridge itself sits a mountain restaurant called Bergrestaurant Hochhamm, where we had planned to enjoy drinks on the sunny terrace. The restaurant is open weekends in winter, and proved to be popular today… we didn’t stay long to enjoy our coffee because the only spot we could still get was on the windy side of the terrace, so we continued on our hike just 20 minutes after getting there. In all, we spent about five hours on the trail.

Traveling to our starting point of Schönengrund in Canton Appenzell Ausserrhoden, we pass many such pretty Appenzell houses. 

We met our friends in Schönengrund and started on our hike at 10:40. Our goal of the restaurant at Hochhamm is 1 hour and 20 minutes of walking along the shortest route, but we took a bit of a longer trail to the crest.  

A look behind us at the houses of Schönengrund as we head up the hill. 

Our 10-kilometer hike was over three hours of walking, with a stop for coffee at the Hochhamm Restaurant. We started at 10:40 in Schönengrund, and got back there at 3:30 p.m. 

A view over the rolling hills of the Appenzell and Toggenburg. 

Typical Appenzell farmhouse, and the only photo where all four of us are on!

There are always streams to cross on the forest trails. 

Above us we can see the Hochhamm Restaurant, but we didn't want to head up there directly, but wanted more time walking along the ridge, so we headed more to the west. 

It took us an hour to reach the ridge, and from here it would be another 30 minutes to walk along the crest to the restaurant. 

Our first glimpse of Mt.Säntis to the southeast. 

Hiking along the Hochhamm Ridge in the Appenzell, with pretty good visibility to the Alps in the southwest. 

Enjoying our walk along the Hochhamm Crest, with a view down into the Necker Valley and Mt.Köbelisberg 

Panorama View of the Toggenburg region. 

It was not a very difficult walk up along the ridge, and even though the wind was a bit chilly, we enjoyed the chance to do this mountain hike in December, without snow!

Fantastic views to the Alpstein Massif and Mt.Säntis as we reach the Hochhamm Mountain Restaurant at 12:45. 

A 20-minute stop for coffee at the Hochhamm Restaurant. This attractive fellow is definitely begging for food!

A final look to the south at 13:15 as we leave the restaurant and continue up to the summit of Mt. Hochhamm before descending back to Schönenberg. 

There is still another uphill section to the summit of Mt. Hochhamm before we start on our descent. 

A look back at the restaurant as we continue to the summit. 

We can see all the way to Lake Zurich (covered in fog) from here. On the hillside directly to the west is the village of Hemberg. 

Final push to the summit of Mt. Hochhamm. In all, we ascended about 550 meters. 

Down below is the town of Schönenberg, which we will descend back to. 

A final look to the south before we make our descent. 

Descending the ridge now on the east side of the summit. Our view extends to Lake Constance to the northeast, also covered in fog!

View from the highest point on Mt. Hochhamm (1275 meters), which we reached at 1:30 p.m. We can see past Lake Zurich to Mounts Rigi and Pilatus!

Half-way down now (at 14:10) and only 45 minutes to get back to Schönengrund!

Enjoying the landscapes on our descent

More beautiful buildings

Final stretch back to the parking lot and bus stop in Schönengrund. 

Looking up, we can see the Hochhamm Restaurant directly above us. We got here at 3:30 p.m., almost five hours after starting on our hike. 

What our loop hike looks like on Google Satellite Maps. 

Vaduz to Schaan in Liechtenstein, via Vaduz Castle and Wildschloss Fortress

(This post created on January 28, 2025)

Saturday, December 5, 2015 -- Liechtenstein is a tiny country (principality – i.e. ruled by a prince) just to the East of Switzerland. The Rhine River forms the border between Eastern Switzerland and Western Lichtenstein on its way North to Lake Constance. Liechtenstein is only 25 km long and has a total area of 160 km²!

We traveled to the capital city of this tiny country (Vaduz) mainly to see the Vaduz Castle, which gave the city its name. In my opinion, this city of 5,400 has little charm, but seems to like modern art and architecture. The attraction to tourists is surely that it’s the main town in such a tiny country. 

Because the Vaduz Castle (dating from approx. the 14th century and containing 130 rooms) is the home of Prince Hans-Adam II and his family, it is not accessible to the public, not even the grounds. So after we walked up to and past the castle we decided to continue on up the mountain to the ruins of the fortress Wildschloss from where we got a great view of the Alpstein Massiv on the Swiss side of the Rhine River. From there we walked back down to the neighbouring town of Schaan. Altogether it was a 9-km walk with quite a large uphill section, with some very nice mid-December weather!

On our way north by train from Sargans, parallel to the Rhine River which forms the border of Switzerland and Liechtenstein, (we are still on the Swiss side here) we get a view of the "Drei Schwestern", or "Three Sisters" and Gafleispitz mountains, which is about the center of the country of Liechtenstein. 

From across the plain, we could see the Vaduz Castle, which was the main sight we had come to see on this day. 

We were headed by train to Schaan (in Liechtenstein) from where we took a bus to Vaduz. Across the plain we can just see the small fortress ruins which we later walked up to. 

Before heading up to the castle, we walked through the streets of Vaduz, the capital city of Liechtenstein. 

Along the main road, this view is the modern city hall building and Cathedral of St. Florin.

The Vaduz Castle thrones over the city from a cliff above the town. 

Before starting on our walk up the mountain, we got some fabulous Döner Kebabs to eat on a sunny city bench! It is now 12:45 p.m. 

According to the signs, it's a 20-minute walk to the Vaduz Castle, and and another approximately one hour to walk up to the ruins of the Wildschloss fortress. This trail is part of National Trail no.1: "Via Alpina". ALSO: A sign in the main part of town advises visitors that NO VISITS are allowed at the Vaduz Castle. 

It's December and there are blossoming trees here!

Some of the modern art in Vaduz, Liechtenstein.

Even some of the buildings are modern art!

As we head up the hill, we get a nice view of the Alpstein Massif. Right in the center is a passage called the "Saxer Lücke". 

We had taken the train to Schaan and a bus to Vaduz, and from there the walk up the mountain and back down to Schaan was almost three hours, and just over 9 kilometers. At 460 meters, this was quite an uphill climb. 

A view to the northwest over the rooftops of Vaduz, and across the valley to the city of Buchs on the Swiss side of the Rhine River. At the west end of the Alpstein Massif is Mount Säntis. 

This is the castle from the north side as we approach the site. 

Visitor information about the city of Vaduz. It is the capital of Liechtenstein and seat of the government, which is a principality (ruled by a Prince). As of 2003, there were 5000 inhabitants of the city. 

Additional information about the Royal Family that lives in the Castle. Prince Hans-Adam II is the current reigning Prince of Liechtenstein.

Another view to the Alpstein Massif in Switzerland, past the outer walls of the Vaduz Castle. 

From the castle, the site of the ruins is another hour from here, most of the time along Trail no.1: "Via Alpina". It's now 1:30 p.m. 

A look back at the Vaduz Castle as we continue up the mountain in the direction of the fortress ruins. It is a real shame that one cannot even go onto the grounds of the castle

As we head up the mountain, we get nice views to the mountains in Switzerland, on the west side of the Rhine River which forms the border with Liechtenstein. 

At 2:40 p.m. we got up to the ruins of the Wildschloss fortress, a little over an hour of uphill walking on forestry roads. 

Ruins of the Fortress Wildschloss in the hills above Vaduz.

Below the ruins of the Fortress Wildschloss in the hills above Vaduz. The view above is to the cliffs below Gafleispitz peak. We left the ruins shortly after 3 p.m., and descended back to the train station in Schaan (still in Liechtenstein), mostly through the forest, which took another hour. 

As this was a couple of weeks before Christmas, there were Christmas Market stands everywhere. Here they were selling toast with melted Raclette cheese, which Urs loves, so we stopped for a snack before continuing on to the train station!

Our ca. 3-hour, 9-km hike from Vaduz up to the ruins, and down to Schaan.

Location of Liechtenstein in relation to Switzerland. The Rhine River forms the border of the two countries there, as well as the border with Austria further to the north.