September 6, 2013

Two-Day Hike from Crans-Montana over the Rawil Pass -- Part 2

(This post published on February 27, 2025)

Friday September 6, 2013 – As the host of the “Restaurant du Barrage de Tseuzier” had to go down to Rhône Valley in the evening after we arrived there for our overnight to pick up some venison for the next day’s meal, we were all alone up here on the dam for the night! This was very exciting, and we even got to help ourselves to breakfast, as he would not be back before we headed out on the second day of our hike. (Photos of Day1 are HERE). 

The next leg of the journey took us to the back of the Lac de Tseuzier (walking along the western bank), then 600 meters up to a large upper plateau called "Alpage de Tseuzier" (i.e. Tzeusier Alpine Meadows) and over the Rawil Pass (or in French: "Col du Rawil") at 2429 meters into the German-speaking canton of Bern. The downhill part to Iffigenalp where we ended our hike was 900 meters on a steep zigzag trail. 

The entire section took us about six hours to walk, but worth every single step. On the zigzag way up we kept getting views of the lake and dam, then up top was a long and wide plain with small lakes, lots of patches of tiny alpine flowers, lots and lots of shale or slate, and most exciting: A herd of local Hérens Cattle which we observed fighting, and made a large detour around! The really interesting thing is the stark language divide: on the Reservoir side, you speak French with the people you meet. Only a few kilometers further north, as soon as you head over the pass, you speak German.

After helping ourselves to the breakfast which the host had prepared for us the night before (photos HERE), we were ready to head out on our second day of the hike at 8:15 a.m. 

The signs at the restaurant show that it should take about 2½ hours to walk to the Rawil Pass. (It took us 3½ hours) 

We chose to walk along the left side of the lake. At the back, at the arrow, is where we reached the "Alpage de Tseuzier". 

Heading off on the trail along the lake on the west side. 

About five minutes along the trail, and we can see the restaurant where we had spent the night. 

We love bridges

View of the lake from the small suspension bridge. 

This place is called "Gite de Lourantze" which also offers accommodations (in teepees) at the back of the lake. At 8:50 a.m. we finally got the morning sunshine! 

Looking to the east, our trail heads up to the base of those cliffs from the left, and then continues up to the left. 

The mountains on the east side of the lake. 

VIDEO:
360-degree view of the back of the valley north of Lac de Tseuzier


Looking up as we reach the cliffs

As we start along the base of the cliffs, we keep getting some superb views of the lake (except that it was hazier than we had hoped!). Down below we can see the teepees at the back of the lake. 

It got quite warm!

Getting higher and higher above the lake. 

Heading north on the trail below the cliffs 

And now we are very high up and can clearly see the dam. 

This photo shows the trail we were following at the base of the cliffs. 

Cute little tunnel!

Fantastic landscape on the north side of the cauldron, looking west. There is a trail heading up there as well. 

At 10 a.m. we got above the level of the cliff onto an upper plateau, but had to keep going uphill from there. This farm is called Armeillon. 

At 2200 meters and above the farm called Armeillon, there are trails headed to the west, and to the north. We are heading to "Plan des Roses" and "Col du Rawil". 

At just over 2300 meters we finally got to the "Alpage du Rawyl", a long and relatively level upper valley leading all the way to the pass. Behind us is the "dip" where Lac de Tseuzier and the cauldron behind it are located. 

The trail was good in a somewhat lunar landscape!

Heading east along the upper Rawil alpine pastures. 

At about 11 a.m. we got to a small lake at a place called "Plan des Roses". It was a good place for a break! We were here for about 10 minutes before continuing on. 

We stopped at this small lake for about 10 minutes. We didn't stay long because it was kind of cool. 

Panorama photo of the small lake at "Plan des Roses". 

At 11:10 we continued on our hike. From the little lake at "Plan des Roses", it should be another 40 minutes to the pass (Col du Rawil) and another 2 hours and 20 minutes to the end of our hike at Iffigenalp. (We got to Iffigenalp at 14:10, so the rest of the way took us 3 hours). 

As we continue along this upper valley, we get a first glimpse of the herd of Hérens Cattle ahead. We usually make a big detour around herds of cattle, but these seem to be somewhat away from the trail. 

These cows are short and very muscular. But when they start to "fight" each other (to prove which one is the dominant female), we move out of the way!

These two kept pushing each other closer and closer to the hiking trail, without being aware of their surroundings, so we got out of the way!

VIDEO:
The breed of cattle local to Canton Valais is called Hérens Cattle. They are raised for milk and meat, but also used in competitions where dominant cows from various herds "fight" with each other to prove who is the queen. The farmers observe which one of the females from their herd shows dominance, in such fights as we witnessed here.
No cows are hurt in these "fights". 


Looking behind us as we continue along the trail, we see that the "fighting cows" have moved right over the walking trail! We're glad we didn't stay too close to watch!

We are always impressed with these large marshy flats up in the mountains!


We got to the Rawil Pass at 11:50, about 3½ hours after leaving the restaurant. (Straight walking time would have been 2½ hours, but we take it slow and take breaks along the way!) 

From the Rawil Pass, it's another 1 hour and 40 minutes to Iffienalp. 

A very nice trail over a hillside of gravel!

Continuing eastward from the Rawil Pass

Tiny little flowers in this rocky landscape!

A small lake below us. 

And here is the first view we had of the Simmental in Canton Bern on the north side of the pass. From here it's all downhill! It's a good place for our lunch break at 12:30!

Down below is another alpine pasture called "Stiereläger". Our trail continues down there. 

Looking above us at the trail we descended. There is still snow here! It probably will not melt till the next winter. 

Down below on the right is Iffigenalp, which will be the end of our hike and from where we can get a bus to Lenk. The trail is steep and winds like this all the way down!

There is a cable-car from Iffigenalp all the way past the height of the pass to some small lakes called the Rawilerseeli, but it is almost exclusively used by the military, which is a real shame!

It looks like Urs is really enjoying this hike!

This is the landscape to our right as we descend. It's really almost a vertical stretch of cliffs!

Once in a while we pass a shelter like this on our high alpine walks. This would be a building called Blattihütte

A steep zigzag descent, but not a problem at all to go down. In fact, I really enjoyed this!

Our descent to Iffigenalp. 

Down below we can just see the buildings at Iffigenalp on the left, and the basin through which the Iffigbach flows. At the far end, the river drops as the spectacular Iffig Falls. You can see the town of Lenk in the back. 

We love these kinds of trails

Down below is the group of buildings at Iffigenalp. There is an old hotel and restaurant there, as well as the final bus stop for the bus from Lenk. 

I'm really enjoying this hike! Considering we have now been on the trail for over five hours, we are doing really well!

A closer look at the Iffigbach River. 

At 14:10 we got to Iffigenalp, about six hours after starting from the Tseuzier Dam. The bus stops here across from the Iffigenalp Berghaus. There is Urs, checking the bus schedule!

A look behind us shows that the "wall" we descended looks totally vertical, and it's hard to believe that there is a trail there!

(Side note: Back in 1988 (?) when I first did this walk on my own, there was no bus running that day when I got to Iffigenalp, so after walking the same stretch from Lake Tseuzier, I had to continue on foot for another two hours to Lenk!)

A lovely farmhouse up here at Iffigenalp. 

This is what our two-day hike looks like on Google Satellite Maps, starting in Crans-Montana, overnighting at the Tseuzier Restaurant, and crossing the Rawil Pass to Iffigenalp on the second day. 

We had to wait about 45 minutes for the bus, and were on our way to Lenk at 3 p.m. From the bus we could see the impressive feat that we did in descending from the Rawil Pass. That is about 900 meters higher than here!

One of the bus stops on the way to Lenk is at the Iffig Falls. The bus stops for a moment so we can take photos of the falls!

Looking down at the valley bottom as the bus approaches Lenk. The trip by bus from Iffigenalp is 26 minutes. 

From Lenk we take the fancy GoldenPass Express train to Spiez on Lake Thun in the north. It's a 4-hour and 15-minute trip home! 

Urs loves any kinds of trains!

Across from the train station in Lenk

There are lots of cute little churches like this in the Simmental Valley between Lenk and Spiez. 

Location of Lac de Tseuzier and Rawil Pass within Switzerland.