St.James Trail from Sumvitg to Trun in the Surselva Valley

Wednesday October 30, 2024 -- Urs has a couple of days off, but still can't walk far, especially not much downhill, but a couple of hours on level ground should be OK, so we decided to give it a try. 

It was beautiful weather in the Surselva Valley in Canton Graubünden (Grisons), and we have already walked along that valley (parallel to the Anterior Rhine River) for some stretches between the Oberalp Pass and Disentis, so we thought we'd just continue where we left off back in November 2018 and see how far we'd get.

Additionally, there is currently maintenance work being done on the Gotthard-Matterhorn railway line, and you have to take a bus from Andermatt over the Oberalp Pass. We have done this stretch many times, always by train, but the train passes through gallery tunnels on the east side of the pass, so this gave us a chance to see the landscape from a motor-vehicle point of view. 

On the way to Disentis, we were witness to the aftermath of a car accident, and there were about 10 rescue vehicles there, and the road was blocked to traffic. We were fortunate that the rescue teams made a way through for the bus (cars had to wait), and we got to the train station in Disentis on time for the train to Sumvitg-Cumpadials, from where we started on this walk. We then ended at Trun, a distance of 7 km and only two hours of walking, which was quite enough. It seemed too early to be heading home, but the train ride through the Rhine Canyon, always a treat, was especially nice this time, as there was still plenty of sunshine in the mid-afternoon. In all it was a very long trip just to walk for two hours, but we were able to enjoy the sunshine away from the eternal fog at home. 

The highlight of the day was the pilgrim church called "Lady of Light" above Trun, which I had totally expected would be locked, as there was construction going on there. The interior was one of the most ornate Baroque artwork that we have seen to date, especially in a church of this moderate size. 

Heading toward the Oberalp Pass by bus from Andermatt (this trip we have done often by train), a look westward onto the Urseren Valley and the city of Andermatt, still in deep shadow. We left Andermatt at 9:30 a.m.  

At the Oberalp Pass, the bus driver had about five minutes' break, so he suggested I could go get a photo of the lake (this is from where the train usually stops), but the bus stopped further up the road, so I had to move quickly!

A zoomed view past the Oberalp Lake to the wind-turbines at Gütsch, and past that to the snow-covered peaks of the Göscheneralp Valley in the West

Heading down the switchback road by bus, and a look up toward the pass

As with all the pass roads, this one had many hairpin turns!

Rounding the bend at Tschamut, we could see the site of the accident. We knew about it beforehand as we were sitting next to the bus driver who had heard the news from the driver of the bus coming up from the other direction, who had made it past the accident site a few minutes earlier. It is now 10 a.m., and I read later that the accident happened at 9:15.

By the time our bus came to the site of the accident (the driver ran right through the barrier here on the right and his car rolled down the hill), there was already a long line of cars backed up. But the rescue workers moved their vehicles so that at least our bus could get through. We read later that the road was blocked for several hours. 

The driver was lucky his car didn't roll even further down the mountain. The workers are securing it to prevent it slipping further. 

Here the rescue workers are loading the victim into the rescue helicopter. Apparently the driver had serious injuries.

This is the Upper Surselva Valley

Heading toward Disentis by bus

A look past the chapel in a little hamlet just before Sedrun, toward the Overalp Pass.

Between Sedrun and Disentis (Segnas)

Arriving in Disentis on time, where we transferred to the regular train. 

On the way to Sumvitg by train. This stretch between Disentis and Sumvitg was one we walked in November of 2018. We had passed by this little chapel, but I don't remember if we saw the inside or not. 

Our walk this day started at the train station in Sumvitg/Cumpadials, where we ended our 8-km walk from Disentis back in November 2018

We started our walk at the Sumvitg train station at 10:50 a.m. and walked 8 km to Trun, where we caught a train at 2 p.m. to continue on down the Surselva Valley. 

The 7 kilometers we walked this day was about half of Stage 17 (the final stage) of the St.James Trail through the Canton of Graubünden. In November of 2018 we walked from Disentis to Sumvitg, and this time from Sumvitg to Trun (the reverse of this description). 

The sheep are enjoying the sunshine as much as we are! On our way up into the village of Sumvitg, we can see all the way to Disentis further up the valley. 

Houses in the village of Sumvitg (Pronounced Soom-vitch)

This painted house is called "Casa Maissen". It was built in 1570. 

What a lovely addition to this building!

Checking out the church in Sumvitg, as usual. This is the parish church of St.John the Baptist. 

The cemetery here has some very nice iron grave crosses

The inside of this church is also very ornate. 

Interior of St.John the Baptist church in Sumvitg

Interior of St.John the Baptist church in Sumvitg

Interior of St.John the Baptist church in Sumvitg. Such a beautiful organ!

A look at the interior of the church from the balcony. A fire in 1785 destroyed the entire interior as well as the bell tower, and it had to all be rebuilt. 

There are two themed trails running along the valley. No.85 is called "Senda Sursilvana" and is more of a mountain trail, and No.43 is a section of the St.James Trail through Graubünden. It follows the lower part of the valley more, passing by many churches and chapels. 

The bell-tower is two stories high and has six different bells. It was built in 1670.

The town at the entrance of the Sumvitg Valley is called Surrein. 

Continuing along the easier trail toward the next village called Rabius.

It's now 11:40 and we are looking for a place to stop for a picnic lunch. Up ahead is a small chapel in a hamlet called Runs, and usually there are benches at chapels and churches. 

Another beautiful concrete arch bridge

Sure enough there was a bench in front of the chapel, perfect for our picnic lunch!

Inside of the St.Nicholas chapel in Runs. 

The view from the bench in front of the chapel. 

Continuing along the trail heading east. 

A look up into the mountains to our left, i.e. to the north. 

Across the valley on the shady side was one small section of forest lit up by the sunshine!

Always pretty houses along the way. 

The church in Rabius is called "Maria Geburt", or "Birth of the Blessed Virgin". This one was built 1677 to 1679. The church was badly damaged in a town fire of 1886. 

Interior of the parish church in Rabius.

As we continued on our path, we saw a tiny chapel up on the hillside. Later research on the Internet  indicates this chapel is called St.Michael's, built in 1669. The upper side of the chapel apparently has some very nice frescoes. Also, apparently the chapel had two bells, which were stolen in 2010. Money was raised to replace them, and more than enough was raised that the chapel could be fully restored. 

A pleasant and warm day for a walk. Too warm, in fact. At this point, I change into shorts. 

Up ahead is the town of Trun, the goal of our hike. But before heading to the train station there, we first went up the mountain to visit that church that we can see on the upper left. 

A close-up look at the church we wanted to have a look at. It is perched about 130 meters higher up than the town of Trun. This pilgrimage church is called "Nossadunna dalla glisch", which is the local Romantsch language and means "Our Lady of the Light". The building recently was totally renovated on the outside (which apparently cost 750,000 Fr.). We weren't actually expecting it to be open!

As we head up the road, a look behind us at the Surselva Valley

Below us is the village of Trun, which we want to check out as well on our way to the train station. 

The church of Nossadunna is in a hamlet called Caltgadira, about 120 meters higher up on the mountainside than the town of Trun. From here it will only be another 20-30 minutes to walk down to the train station in Trun. 

Front facade of the Nossadunna church. The church was dedicated in 1672, after nine years of construction. Major restorations took place in 1939 and 1940, but then shortly thereafter (Dec.1949) a fire destroyed most of the church. Since then, restoration efforts have returned it to its Baroque glory. 

We were so happy that the church building was open, as it was one of the most beautifully ornate church interiors we had seen, expecially for a relatively "small" building. 

Fantastic interior of the Nossadunna church. This is all restoration work since the fire of 1949 destroyed a large part of this church. 

Interior of the Nossadunna church. 

Everywhere beautiful paintings and intricate artwork. 

Interior of the Nossadunna church. 

At the altar, an homage to Mary

Interior of the Nossadunna church. 

Lovely wood-paneled painted ceiling

View from the terrace of the church looking East. We had actually taken a detour up here. The official St.James trail passes by that other little chapel (dedicated to St.Catherine, built in 1590) below in the hamlet of Campliun, which we bypassed on our way up here. 

It got so warm that I had to put on my shorts! This winding trail down to Trun was a "Stations of the Cross" (Via Crucis) trail. 

Heading down to Trun now, to the main road on the west side of the town. 

We first pass this beautiful building, which is a museum. The house is know as the "Hof des Grauen Bundes", or "Court of the Grey League", and is one of the most attractive 17th-Century Manor Houses in Canton Graubünden (the name of the Canton means "Grey League"). It was the seat of the Canton's High Court.

Above us we can see the steeple of the Nossadunna church. 

Passing the Catholic parish church of St.Martin's in Trun, in its current state since 1658. From here we had just enough time to make it to the 2 p.m. train, so we had to decide to either head straight to the train station or have a look inside the church and then have to wait an hour for the next train. At this point, I think we had had enough of churches for the day!

Heading down the main street in Trun, to the train station. 

Right across from the train station, though, was this little chapel called St.Anna's Chapel, consecrated in 1704. There was just enough time for a quick peek inside. 

The Neo-Baroque interior of St.Anna's Chapel 

It was here at the courtyard next to the church that the "Alliance of the Grey League" was created in 1424 to form the free state of the "Three Leagues". The Free League joined the Confederacy only in 1803 as the Canton of Graubünden. The frescoes on the front of the church depict the forming of the alliance. 

We just reached the train station as the 2 p.m. train rolled in! Good thing we didn't have to go through an underpass to get to our platform, but could get on right here!

What the hikes look like which we did in the upper Surselva Valley, including a couple of hikes to and via the source of the Rhine River at Lake Toma near the Oberalp Pass. 

The rest of these photos are from the train trip back home via the Rhine Gorge and Chur. Always a treat to ride the train on this stretch. From Trun it is a one-hour ride to Chur, and then another 2½ hours to home. 

There are so many more churches we can visit on future hikes through the Surselva Valley! This one is village called Danis near the Tavanasa train station. 

Passing through Ilanz, where we had spent a night this summer on July 14th on a two-day trip to the Valser Valley.  

Heading into the Rhine Gorge. I love this train where you can open the windows and let the lovely air in and take good photos!

The Rhine River has carved out this beautiful gorge after the largest known landslide in Europe's history about 9000 years ago at the end of the last ice age. 

Continuing along the Rhine River

VIDEO:

A train ride through the Rhine Gorge

(My video viewed through YouTube)

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Here at Reichenau is the confluence of the Vorderrhein and Hinterrhein (the Posterior and Anterior Rhine Rivers). The river continues northwards to flow into Lake Constance. We did a great hike over the Kunkels Pass in the back, in May 2020.

VIDEO:

Heading into the train station at Reichenau-Tamins

Beyond the Kunkels Pass we can see the peaks of the Sardona region. 

And one of my favourite sights is the fortress at Sargans, on the train ride from Chur to Zurich. 

Traveling along Lake Walensee, we can see that the blanket of fog starts right at the west end of the lake. 

Always lovely to see the Churfirsten peaks as we travel along Lake Walensee. We were on the summit of the two peaks on the right on a fabulous hike in September of this year (photos HERE). 

Cute island in Lake Zurich. It was so nice to be in the sunshine, and not so nice to be back in the fog again. 

Location of the upper Surselva Valley within Switzerland.