Two-Day Hike from Braunwald to Glattalp to Bisistal

Weekend of July 2&3, 2022 -- With some great weather in the forecast, we decided to do a hike which we have long wanted to do but cannot do as a day hike: Starting above Braunwald in Canton Glarus (Linth Valley) and crossing a saddle called Furggele (below Mt. Ortstock), followed by a descent to the popular Glattalp Lake and alpine pastures. Altogether this would have been at least 5 hours of straight walking, and we might possibly not have been able to catch the last cable car from Glattalp into the Bisis Valley on the same day. So we treated ourselves to an overnight in a mountain Gasthaus (including dinner and breakfast) and planned to do a loop tour into the neighbouring Charet Valley before taking the cable car down the next day (those plans changed).

We were able to start early with few people along the way, and stunning air clarity! Mt. Tödi, the distinctive mountain at the back of the Linth Valley, was visible like we had never seen it before. And the Schwyzer and Uri Alps, as we finally reached the Furggele Saddle after a grueling almost vertical climb up the North side (at first we were worried that there was too much snow here for the ascent) were spectacular. 

This region of Glattalp and Charetalp is the largest Karst Region in Switzerland, and beneath the porous landscape is also the largest underground cave system (207km) in Europe, and one of the largest in the world. The landscape is surreal and breathtaking. This is also known as one of the coldest regions in winter.

I had somehow thought we would have a shower at the Gasthaus, but there were only two community sinks with cold water... Had I known, I might have taken a swim in the beautiful Glattalp Lake! But after four hours of hiking, we wanted to get our packs off, so we headed straight to the mountain hostel (an old converted farmhouse) and another hour of walking. It was a unique experience: We got a great homecooked meal (the best barley soup I have ever had!!) and were serenaded by a trio of alphorns, particularly appreciated by the young cows who gathered around us from all over the pasture! (Usually I love cows, but those bells just a couple of meters from your ears are hard to take!)

Even though the 1-hour ascent from Bärentritt was tough (3 hours total to the saddle), the descent was even tougher, a layer of rock which you sank into and which moved with you on the descent. But the view and the masses of yellow arnica made up for it!

This 2-day hike were the final two hikes in a series of 7 hikes within 9 days! In the end it was 25 km over the two days. (And taking into account the steep ascents and descents, "performance kilometers" work out to about 44 km over the two days). Furthermore, because of the tricky limestone terrain, we ended up needing 25% more time for every 1 hour of marked trail!

From the valley bottom in the Linth Valley, you take a funicular up to Braunwald (this is the only access), which is a car-free village (only some electrical carts transport people to their hotels). The view from the funicular station is to the back of the Linth Valley (Linthal)

A 20-minute walk to the Gumenalp cable car station. On the right is the main mountain here, Mt.Ortstock. It is a popular summit hike. 

The Gumenalp cableway alternates chairs and gondolas. It is so peaceful to ride on the chair, better view, nice smells...

Another view to the back of the Linth Valley from the cableway. The mountain with the flat top is Mt. Tödi, very visible this day. This, by the way, is Canton Glarus. Mt. Ortstock (on the right) on the other hand, is already Canton Schwyz

Close-up view of the magnificent Mt. Tödi

From the cableway we got a good look at the saddle we wanted to cross (to the right of Mt.Ortstock), and were worried that there was too much snow. Also, it looks much too "vertical"

A zoomed view of the Furggele Saddle which we need to walk up to (400m ascent). Was it going to be possible? We decided to head there (2 hours) and see what the situation was. 

In total a 5-hour, 12-km hike. You can see where the steep ascent and descent over Furggele took place. We started at Gumenalp, and crossed the Canton border from Glarus to Schwyz about an hour from the start. From there 1hr 15mins to Bärentritt, another 1hr 15 mins to the saddle, and two more hours to the Berggasthaus (not the SAC hostel). 

Heading out along the high trail to the passage across the canton border (An hour to that point, called Bützi)

Martagon Lily (Türkenbundlilie), not seen often

The meadows of alpine flowers were fantastic!

Flowering meadows and interesting rock formations

A view back to where we started, and to the Glarus Alps, mostly part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site Tectonic Arena Sardona. There were only those three other people going the same way we were. We did encounter several coming in this direction. 

Heading up to Bützi, with Mt. Ortstock in the background

Those sloped terraces are fascinating!

In summer, 3000 sheep roam free up here. These are the only ones we saw, they strayed a little further down than the rest. 

At Bützi we cross into Canton Schwyz. One hour to Bärentritt at the base of Mt.Ortstock, before we started our climb. It took longer than an hour because of the porous limestone terrain.

A look eastward down the Charet Valley, another beautiful valley which we walked down in October 2017, those photos are HERE

Walking through the limestone (karst) landscape. Charet Valley on the right, and the Glattalp Valley on the other side of the Furggele passage. 

It took extra time to navigate through this landscape

A fantastic day, stunning landscape, not too hot. In a good mood!

As we got closer to the saddle, we still weren't sure how to get up there. Then we saw some tiny people (at the arrow) crossing the band of snow, so we knew it was passable. 

This is what we would look like along the trail on the way up to Furggele!!!

The largest karst landscape in Switzerland. Magnificent.

We stopped for a bite to eat, and the alpine choughs came begging!

Those sloped terraces up close

This peak is more than likely a mountain called Hausstock, part of the Glarus Alps. You can see a horizontal line below the peak, one of the characteristics of the Glarus Thrust. 

At Bärentritt we are informed that it should take an hour to Furggele (we had longer) and another 3 hours to our hotel at Glattalp

We had observed several people descending by now (talking to them, they had all been to the summit of Mt. Ortstock) so we knew the ascent was do-able. 

A weird and tricky trail flattened into a whole mountainside of shale-like rock. Interestingly enough, the rocks did not slide or roll. 

A look back toward Bärentritt and the Glarus Alps

A couple of snowy passages had to be crossed (this is where we saw the tiny people before!) but not difficult

The trail seemed almost vertical

Every few minutes a stop to look behind us, the far distance we had already come (Gumenalp is the green hillside at the very back between the forested sections)

In this barren and rocky landscape, the pretty arnica flowers were flourishing in abundance!

This magnificent outcropping on the North side of the saddle was my favourite. It is called a horn and has a name: "Höch Turm" ("Tall Tower"). 

Our first look to the west down the Glattalp Valley. Astounding!!!! We stayed up here longer than we usually stay in any one place, it was so gorgeous. 

To the South, Mt.Ortstock, an hour more to its peak. All these people were up there. Mostly they walk in the other direction than we did, overnighting at the Swiss Alpine Club Hostel at Glattalp, walking up from the lake, and descending the way we came. 

From here, almost two hours more to descend to the lake (1 hour) and to the cable car (there are two accommodations near the cable car station, the Swiss Alpine Club Hostel, and the Berggasthaus where we stayed). 

VIDEO

Panorama looking down at the Glattalp Valley

Enjoying our hard work and accomplishments before tackling the difficult descent

Look how tiny he looks in this great big landscape!

It's a wonder that anything can grow here...

Time to head down. Descending is more difficult than going up, as the trail was slippery with shifting rocks and we barely had any grip. 

Slowly and carefully down the difficult steep slope

I am always glad to fill up with cold mountain water!

The hillside was all yellow with Arnica

Another look back to the Furggele saddle

Still a long way to the far side of the lake. The Hotel is past the slanted rock at the far back. 

With these long hikes we have been doing, I usually stop at some point and put my feet into the cold water. It feels great. I did it here as well.

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The river....

From the head of the lake we can walk an hour on either side. We chose the South side because there were several smaller lakes along the way. 

Heading off along the south side of the lake (on the left). Had I known there was no shower at the Berggasthaus, I would have had a swim here. 

One of several smaller lakes on the south side of Lake Glattalp

Butterflies on the pretty pink flowers

Other pretty alpine flowers

More lakes, as the trail keeps on going....

One last look up the Glattalp Valley before reaching our accommodation. There are late afternoon clouds moving in now. 

Berggasthaus Glattalp. Our bedroom window faced South. We had dinner in the garden restaurant

The cows have free range of this wide open upper alpine pasture. This is the view from the garden terrace. 

What our excursion looks like on Google Satellite maps. Starting at Gumenalp and walking for five hours to Berggasthaus Glattalp.

The food served by the alpine farmers who own the Gasthaus was very good.

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I usually like the sound of cow bells, but when they are this close, it is really loud! I was worried I might not get the peaceful rest I was hoping for, but they moved away from the building by the time we went to bed

We then got serenaded by alphorns. The cows in particular enjoyed it! They came from far afield to listen. 

This little girl needed some special attention. 

VIDEO:

Alphorn serenade... One of the cows wants special attention

We had a private room as opposed to bunkbeds in the general sleeping area, but unfortunately no private bathroom and not even warm water!

At 9:00 p.m. the setting sun on the mountains south of our bedroom window. By now we were too tired to make the effort to go outside again to see how it might look on the alp.

Location of Glattalp on a map of Switzerland

It is also worth noting that we have done many hikes in this area!

A lot of hiking in this area! At the front is the Urnerboden Valley.

Photos from the Day2 hike are HERE