Over the Safierberg Pass into the Safien Valley

Monday July 25, 2022:  Final Day of 5-day trip to Rheinwald in Beverin Nature Park

We had purposefully planned to add Monday to our hiking week because there was another Alpine Taxi offered on Monday, one which took us 460m up the mountain to the North of the town of Splügen, to a lone mountain alpine farm called Alp Stutz. This saved us 90 minutes of uphill walking, and we only had another two hours to get to the pass called Safierberg (another 600m ascent). 

The ascent went well, but was a bit monotonous, as the landscape didn't change much. Once we got to the pass, though, the view into the Safien Valley was spectacular. The descent to the bus stop at Turrahus in the very back of this valley took us another 2.5 hours, and by the time we got there, we were glad to get out of the heat with something cold to drink at the Gasthaus there.

All that remained was a very long bus ride (approx 1 hour, made longer by the massive amount of work going on on this mountain road) north out of this valley to join the Rhine Canyon, which is a natural marvel always worth a visit. Almost four hours to get home, but that was the reason for staying in one place and doing day excursions from there.

Interesting Note: There were thunderstorms predicted for the Safien Valley at around 3 p.m., then moved to 2 p.m., and we were worried we'd be caught in the rain (in this case, it might have been a relief). When we got to the bus stop at Turrahus at 3 p.m., there still was no rain. It started as we were about half-way down the valley on the bus.

Another interesting Note: We started the day in the Rheinwald Valley, which is the source of the Hinterrhein River, and we joined the Rhine Gorge where the Anterior Rhine passes through, both of these rivers being the major headwaters of the Rhine River, joining in Reichenau.  

When we were in the area a year ago, we hiked up to some mountain lakes on the Splügen Pass side of the valley. It's from here that we could see right up the valley to the Safienberg Pass. We knew we wanted to come back to hike up that valley. 

A close-up look at Stutzalp and the Valley to the Safierberg Pass, as seen from the South side of the Rheinwald valley. We got a ride with the tourist bus from the village of Splügen up to the farm buildings at Alp Stuzt, and walked another two hours to the pass. (Almost 600m ascent)

For us it was a bit of a late start, waiting for the alpine taxi which left Splügen at 9:25 to take us up to Alp Stutz. We prefer an earlier start to our hikes, but we were happy for the service. And we were the only two passengers. 

Being as we were the only two passengers, I rode up front in the van and was able to take a few nice photos as we drove up on the narrow road. This is the village of Splügen from the "back side". 

A look down at Lake Sufers, a reservoir lake from which the Hinterrhein flows into the Roffla Gorge. 

The entrance to this valley is particularly stunning. Our hike started beyond the waterfalls, near the buildings upper left. 

On this map are four of the six alpine taxis offered in this area. We took advantage of two of the ones on this map. Next trip we will hike over the Valserberg Pass. The hike over the Safierberg Pass to Turrahus Gasthaus bus stop takes about 4 to 4.5 hours. (Note also that the region accessed by the uppermost bus was temporarily off-limits because some wolves killed some cows up there). 

Starting on our hike into the Stuztalp Valley just below the farm buildings. It is now 09:40

The farmhouse and barn at Alp Stuzt, virtually the only buildings in this valley. You can just see the Splügen pass on the right (Italy on the other side)

Hundreds of sheep were grazing on the steep pastures on the other side of the valley

Being watched again by cows blocking our trail. We had to do another detour around them!

Clouds blocked the sun on the stretch where we really wanted it, and it was cold

The uphill hike was rather monotonous

The peaks to the north were interesting. 

A look back down the valley as we approached the pass. There were only two other people hiking up the valley at the same time (you can see them in the photo), but they did not use the alpine taxi. They started in the village of Splügen and walked the entire way up.

It took us two hours to walk to the pass at Safierberg. This is, by the way, part of National Trail no.6: "Alpine Passes Trail", and one of the few sections we can actually do!

The climb was worth it for the view into the Safien Valley on the north side of the pass

Panorama view from Safierberg Pass. We had our picnic lunch up here. 

Trail heading down into the Safien Valley

I have no problems filling up my water bottle from mountain streams!

The poisonous monkshood was the dominant alpine flower this time. 

This is a side valley where cows were grazing, but there is no hiking trail there. 

We were pleasantly surprised to discover this beautiful waterfall as we got near valley bottom!

As we got further from the waterfall, the "source" of the waterfall looked more and more impressive

This is where we descended from the Safierberg Pass

A final look to the back of the Safien Valley. 

Passing more and more farms. This was a good idea: Bottled drinks keeping cool in the fountain, and a price list and cash box. 

Urs is a great supporter of farms offering cold drinks for sale

We got to the Turrahus Gasthaus shortly before 3 p.m. As the bus was leaving at 3:30, this was enough time for something cold to drink. We were lucky that we did not get the forecast rain during our hike. 

This information panel tells us that the Walser people crossed the Safierberg from the Rheinwald in approx. 1300, and the passage was one of the main trade routes from Chiavenna and Milano.

These funny goats with short legs were simply lying down in the road

Our 4.5-hour hike from Alp Stutz over Safierberg to Turrahus in the Safien Valley. 

The rest of the photos are from the bus ride down the Safien Valley, and the train ride through the Rhine Canyon (Ruinaulta) to Reichenau, where both rivers Posterior and Anterior Rhine meet, to form the Rhine River as we know it. The video of the bus ride is one I put together when we visited the valley in December 2015.

From the bus window, a look to the back of the Safien Valley as we pass the small church in Thalkirch

Amazing vertical cliffs on the East side of the Safien Valley. 

Some pretty impressive work going on on this mountain road.

Our approach to the village of Versam which is at the entrance of the valley. From there the road descends into the Rhine Canyon. The weather cleared up again.

VIDEO:

Post Bus Ride along the very narrow road up and down the Safien Valley

 in December 2015

             

A first glimpe of the Rhine Canyon as the bus takes us down to the train station

One of the largest landslides in Earth's history took place here, and the Rhine River carved this out over millions of years. 

Traveling through the Rhine Canyon by train. This is a stretch that is only accessible by train and boat, not even on foot. 

River rafting on the Rhine

The sign on the left shows the high-water mark of the Rhine River in 1927

The two headwaters of the Rhine River (Anterior and Posterior Rhine -- i.e. Vorderrhein and Hinterrhein) join here in the town of Reichenau, close to Chur

Location of the Safien Valley in Switzerland

On this map, the orange trails are the ones we did this year, and the mint green ones are the ones we did in September 2021