A Walk from Village to Village along the Hinterrhein River

Saturday July 23, 2022: DAY 3 of our five-day Vacation in Rheinwald, Graubünden

The day had been planned with a reservation on a different Alpine Taxi, one starting in the Ferrera Valley where we had been the first day, and going into the Valle di Lei (that valley which just touched onto the border of Switzerland at the old Avers Road -- photos are HERE), where there is a large dam which belongs to Switzerland even though the lake itself and the valley belong to Italy.

Unfortunately we woke up to heavy rain and thunderstorms (welcome in this heat but rather unpleasant for hiking) so we cancelled the bus and returned to bed. Later, when the rain had stopped, we figured why not simply start walking right from our building down the valley parallel to the Hinterrhein River? (The Hinterrhein River is one of the two major headwaters of the 1200-km Rhine River and has its source here). There was one more village we hadn't discovered yet, the next one over called Medels, so off we went. We continued on to Splügen, it took us just over two hours to get there. Timing was good, as there was a bus heading back up valley. Two hours isn't long enough for us to walk, so we stayed on the bus till the uppermost village (also called Hinterrhein) and from there we walked back to our accommodation. 

In total, it was another 13 km as well, and we only got lightly rained on twice. Originally we had thought to go to a restaurant for dinner, but we didn't feel like heading out again. The house we stayed at had its own shop on street level, and we found they were selling hand-made Capuns (a local specialty sort of like cabbage rolls) so we simply baked them up for dinner.

It was sufficient for this day, because the weather promised to be very good for the next day, and we had a 5-hour hike planned....

A look back at the village of Nufenen as we head East toward the next village: Medels, and ultimately on to Splügen, the main village in this valley. It's already 11:30 a.m., but we waited for a break in the rain. 

The first walk we did was 8 km from Nufenen to Splügen. Then we took the bus back but past Nufenen to Hinterrhein Village, further back in the valley. 

Sometimes we run across random sculptures made with the chainsaw that cut down the tree! We also got caught in a bit of a drizzle

Giving the cows a wide berth... there were a couple of babies in the pasture, and the cows watch us carefully!

A nice display of cow bells

Small old chapel in Medels

Village of Medels

Heading on toward Splügen

A selection of Walser-style buildings as we approach Splügen

Splügen is the main village in the Rheinwald Valley. We approached it from the West

Splügen is one of the oldest and most typical mountain pass villages in Canton Graubünden. 

Imagine the work it took to build this road back in the Middle Ages

I love fountains!

A little walk through Splügen admiring the beautiful buildings

Heading down to the main road now

A look at Splügen from the East side

The bridge across the Hinterrhein River, looking westward (up valley)

Main street in Splügen. It's now 2:15 p.m. and we are just in time for a bus which is heading toward the San Bernardino Tunnel. (Back the way we came)

Heading back past Medels on the bus

An 8-minute ride on the bus and we are in Hinterrhein Village, ready for a second hike along the Hinterrhein River back to Nufenen Village

This second walk was 5 kilometers, from Hinterrhein village back to Nufenen. 

A look up-valley to where the Hinterrhein (Posterior Rhine) has its source. The San Bernardino Pass is on the left. 

First a detour to the old bridge (built in 1692). From here we could walk up to the San Bernardino Pass, but we are walking along the "Rheinquellenweg", or "Rhine Source Trail"

Behind me is the village of Hinterrhein (same name as the river). We didn't walk through it this time as we had inspected it last year. (Those photos are HERE)

This is the "young" Hinterrhein River, one of the most important headwaters of the 1200-km long Rhine River. Its source is in the mountains at the back of this valley. 

There is a major highway through the Rheinwald Valley, providing access to Canton Tessin through the San Bernardino Tunnel. The noise of the traffic does not bother me. 

Suspension bridges are always great!

We discovered a great waterfall with a clear pool, and had a break here. We were also graced with a bit of sunshine at this point!

I had just finished dipping my feet in the cold mountain water... and my face apparently also!

VIDEO:

The Waterfall

Continuing down-river, we got caught in a burst of light rain for the second time this day. Good thing my sister gave me this plastic cover, which I always have along! (It does get hot though)

I said to Urs, "It would be nice to have a tree to stand under", and then I saw the goats taking cover here. Turns out these are the goats which pass by our accommodation twice each day! Our host told me this tree is very important for them.

An easy 5-km walk along the Hinterrhein River, a headwater to the major Rhine River. 

And here is the village of Nufenen... back "home" now

The "two" hikes we did formed a joint 13-km stretch between four of the five villages in the Rheinwald Valley. 

Back at the apartment, we purchased the Capuns out of the freezer in the inhouse shop, and baked them up in our oven. Not as good as the ones in the restaurant, because they were dry and we had no sauce. 

The 300-year-old former traveler's inn has been lovingly renovated by the Baschung Family into two rentable apartments and a B&B, plus a shop that sells local products. They live in it as well with their four boys.

In the shop you can buy all kinds of local meats, cheeses, eggs, sirups, pasta and more, including the capuns handmade by a local person

The entrance...

Upper floor, each boy has a room here, and we access our studio from here as well

Studio apartment which we have now rented twice. The only thing missing is a balcony, but there are plenty of places to sit outdoors. 

The walls are about two feet thick! Keeps it cool in summer...

Capuns are a local dish made of Spätzle dough mixed with dried meats, and rolled in Swiss Chard leaves. We baked up this local product instead of going to a restaurant to order them.