Two Very Different Hikes in the Valais: Day 2 (Gemmi Pass)

February 15th, 2017 -- After a quiet restful night in a simple mountain hotel and a lovely breakfast buffet, we headed a few kilometers further West to the vacation village of Leukerbad, from where we took a cable car to the Gemmi Pass at a height of 2322m, 1300m higher up than the hike I did the day before.

Naturally at this height there is still lots of snow, and that was the plan for this day, a 10km walk through the high alpine winter landscape northwards from Canton Valais to Canton Berne, amid the stark rocky landscape, crossing a frozen lake, stopping for lunch at the historical Schwarenbach Inn (built in 1742 as a toll/customs station but later turned into an inn which housed many famous historical figures on this popular North-South Route across the Alps), and then descending to Kandersteg (again by cable car) on the North Side.

I am fascinated that Switzerland maintains winter routes through such high alpine landscapes so that we hikers can also still enjoy our sport at this time of year. The trail is advertised as a North-South trail, which would seem to be way more strenuous judging by the exertion of the folks walking in our direction. I think we were smarter to choose to cover the 400m height difference in the South-North DOWNHILL direction! It was a fantastic day and so warm, I wish I had brought shorts. And the trail so full that the only seating available for us at the inn (we were planning to have lunch there) was on the cement steps... 

Here is an interesting article about the Schwarenbach Inn and its history: http://www.swissinfo.ch/eng/frozen-ghosts-haunt-gemmi-pass/14676

(Photos of DAY 1 HERE)

Early morning leaving our hotel on the South Side of the Rhone Valley

The hotel we stayed in was on the South side of the Rhone Valley in a mountain village called Unterbäch. To get where we were going for the day, we first had to take the cable car back down into the valley, then the bus westward a few kilometers into another steep valley, and another cable car up to the Gemmi Pass where our hike started.

Heading into the Dala Gorge, this is a vew over Leuk and the Rhone Valley. The village of Leukerbad is at the end of the Dala Valley

The Pfyn Forest

This is the Pfyn Forest, one of Europe's last large pine forests. The Forest used to be feared because of the robbers and Highwaymen who roamed here. Now it is a 10 km2 natural reserve of national importance. The Rhone River flows through this forest on its way to Lake Geneva. 

On the way up from Leukerbad to the Gemmi Pass

Look-out Platform at the Gemmi Pass, 2320m altitude.

On the lookout platform at the Gemmi Pass

Looking down at the vacation village of Leukerbad.

View South across the Valais Alps, which include the Matterhorn, and the highest peak on Swiss soil: Mount Dom

We walked 10 km on the Winter Trail, starting at the Gemmi Pass and walking across the frozen Lake. Had coffee and cake at the Schwarenbach Inn, then crossed the provincial boundary between Valais and Berne. After descending with the cable car on the Berne side, we walked another 3 km to the train station in Kandersteg.

Start of our hike. The first part of the 10-km walk crossed a frozen alpine lake (Daubensee)

Heading across the frozen lake (Daubensee)

This is the newest sport in the alps, snow mountainbiking.

Looking back South across the lake after our crossing.

What a super day for a high alpine walk.

Just a few more minutes and we reach the Schwarenbach Inn, where many well-known historical personages overnighted on their trek across these mountains.

Started at the Gemmi Pass, headed toward Sunnbüel

The trail is popular, and so is the hotel. There was not a single free seat inside. 

The only spot we could find for our coffee and cake was on these stone steps. We actually were planning on a cooked lunch, but there was no room at a table.

Very popular hike. These people are walking from North to South where they have more uphill than we did.

Heading North

Here is the border between the Cantons of Valais and Berne

This is the cable car from Sunnbüel to Kandersteg.... or 3 km from Kandersteg.

This historical building (storage barn) is the oldest building in the area. During restoration it was estimated to date from 1510.

Along the Kander River

We walked an additional 3 km along the Kander River to Kandersteg after descending with the cable car from the ledge approx. center of the photo (where the power lines/towers are).