Loop Hike from Aelplibahn Cableway to the three Fläscher Lakes

Tuesday July 9, 2024 -- For a long time we had been studying a trail near the border of Liechtenstein and Austria, on the west end of the what is called the Rätikon massif. The route was interesting for us as it meant riding a cable-way we had not tried out before, and visiting three mountain lakes within an enclosed valley. But the cable-way is very small (8 people can be transported every 15 minutes) and very popular and you have to reserve ahead of time, and as the hike we wanted to do required at least 5 hours of walking, we needed to get time slots early in the morning, and these were always booked out on the nice days we could have gotten up there. Last summer there was an opportunity, but after the long dry season (so different from this year) we phoned ahead and found out the lakes were all dried up.

But this Tuesday was our perfect opportunity. The rains have filled the lakes and rivers, and we were able to get time slots for the 9 a.m. ascent and the final 5 p.m. descent on the Aelplibahn Cableway, which gave us almost 8 hours to complete the hike. Although the day started out hot, it soon became bearable, the air was clear for great views, the mountain landscape was spectacular, as were the lovely meadows and the turquoise lakes, and we saw marmots and best of all two chamois playing on some of the left-over snow!

We took a longer rest than usual at the splendid Upper Lake (the three lakes in the Fläscher Valley are simply called the Outermost Lake, the Middle Lake, and the Upper Lake) and were kind of worried we wouldn't make it back in time for even the last run of the day! We took a different route on the way back, and it was partially blocked by parts of the hillside having come down due to the rain, and partially on very wet trail. But as it turned out, we got back to the Aelpli restaurant at 4:15 p.m., in time to enjoy our traditional Panaché, and even managed to secure a spot on the 4:45 descent, as the people who had booked that one ended up not making it! (That way we also caught the earlier bus for the 2-hour trip back home, that's how close this is to where we live!)

The base station of the Aelplibahn is in the town of Malans, which you pass through by bus from the train station in Landquart. (We were able to have a closer look at this town at the end of a hike we did in the Prättigau in May of 2020)

We'd never been on this cable-car before, and even though there was a double-cabin, it was a tight squeeze with four people in each! But it's such a bonus to be able to get carried 1200 meters up the mountain to terrain we otherwise would not be able to reach! We caught the 9 a.m. run (the cable-car runs every 15 minutes) for the 12-minute ride up the mountain. 

This region is called the Bündner Herrschaft and is the "birthplace" of the famous Heidi character from the books. 

A close-up look a the peaks of the Churfirsten mountains as we head up the steep hillside in the tiny cable-car. 

The Aelpli restaurant is built into a vertical cliff, with this lovely terrace overlooking the Rhine Valley. Some people stop for a cup of coffee before heading out on their hikes. We used the bathroom before heading out. 

Enjoying the view of the Rhine River Valley from the terrace at the Aelpli restaurant. At the very back is the city of Chur. 

Watching the cable-car descend for the 9:30 pick-up at the bottom! The mountain range in the center is called the Calanda. 

The most popular hike here is to the summit of Mt. Vilan. We are headed to the Fläschertal (Fläscher Valley), about 2 hours from here. The first goal is the uphill portion to Kamm, one hour. 

The hike to the upper lake (and back) maps as 4½ hours walking time, but the locals claim the loop hike to the second lake is 4 to 4½ hours, with an additional 50 minutes to the upper lake and back. So in all, this hike was more than five hours!

Heading up to the saddle called Kamm. As usual, a cloud formed in the otherwise blue sky, casting shadow right where we were!

Hahaha, this happens so often that the day starts cloudless for us and then shortly after we start on the day's hike, clouds form right above us! But for hiking uphill, this isn't too bad!

Quite a bit of the first hour was on this wide gravel road. But it wasn't too hot yet, and the view was good. 

It seems the grass is really always greener on the other side of the fence!

We made it to Kamm in an hour and 10 minutes, so a bit longer than suggested (I don't walk as quickly uphill on wide gravel or paved roads!)

From the view bench at Kamm (where we rested for 10 minutes), a view at the trail from the Aelpli restaurant to the saddle. Luckily there was an alternate small trail through the meadow here. 

A small mountain home at Kamm

Heading on now toward the lakes, on a lovely level trail! These mountains are called the Rätikon, and form the border between Switzerland and Austria. 

The meadows full of flowers were such a pleasure to walk through!

All the lovely flowers we encountered in the meadows on our walk this day. 

This large alpine pasture is called Fläscher Alp

An easy-to-walk high trail toward the FläschValley

We even caught sight of a marmot relaxing on a rock!

We also saw many of these beautiful fire lilies, especially on the hillside next to the restaurant. 

The high trail

Reaching the first lake, called "Vorderscht See" (or Outermost Lake) at 11:30, about 2 hours after starting on our hike. 

Such a pretty lake! We were lucky to see this full of water, as it dries out after a long, hot summer. 

The two trees growing out of the two rocks look pretty cool!

Crossing the stream with a bit of difficulty.....

But just around the corner was this plank across the stream, it made it much easier to cross!

All the pretty flowers

Not 10 minutes from the first lake, we reach the second lake called "Mittler See", or "Middle Lake". This one also dries out after a dry, hot summer. 

VIDEO:

Middle Lake in the Fläsch Valley

Internet research shows that this is called a Latticed Heath Moth. Nice camouflage!

Even though the walk to the second lake and back would be at least four hours total, we wanted to see the final lake as well, an extra 50 minutes there and back!

A look behind us at the middle lake. We are now in the Fläsch Valley. 

On the other side of those peaks is the country of Liechtenstein. These peaks are called Vorder Grauspitz and we caught sight of people at the top, probably rock-climbing from the opposite side. 

On that area of snow still remaining on the mountain flank, I spotted some movement and knew automatically that these were chamois. I was able to get some decent highly-zoomed photos of them.

Close-up shot of two chamois playing on the snow. 

VIDEO:

Two chamois playing on the snow.

Toward the end of the video, one of them pushes a rock around like a ball!

We got to the "Oberst See" (Uppermost Lake) at 12:45. There were quite a few people up here, as some come to fish (the lake is stocked with trout and Canadian Arctic Char). The lake had the most fabulous turquoise colour, and we were glad we came all the way up here. 

To get a better view of the lake, we ascended on the trail on the north side of the lake for a short stretch (the trail continues to a saddle higher up). 

We stayed here for about 30 minutes, longer than any break we usually take, but it was already 1 p.m., and we knew it would take us at least 3 hours to get back. We didn't want to miss our 5 p.m. slot for the cable-car. 

There were actually people brave enough to take a dip in the lake, but they didn't stay in the water long, as it was really cold!

On the way back down, we saw that the chamois were still walking around the snow patch. 

Heading back down to the Middle Lake, which also had a fabulous turquoise colour. 

Small blue gentians

Back at the middle Lake. From here you can't see the Upper Lake. 

Cute how the flowers grow in the lake. Maybe it just looks this way because the water level is so high. 

The stream between the Middle and Lower Lakes. 

Back at the "Outermost Lake". It was prettier here on our way up. In the meantime, there were more people here as well, families having a picnic, probably only wanting to walk this far from the cable-car station. 

Now we are back on the high trail with a view over the Prättigau region. The massif at the back is called Schijenfluh, and we did a walk around that massif (crossing into Austria) in July 2021, those photos are HERE

Instead of returning via Kamm (on the right), we are going to walk that trail straight ahead at the arrow. Down below is the Fläscher Alp, and we could have taken that road as well, but the upper trail was much nicer, so we just walked back on that one. 

Heading back again on the upper trail. It seemed to take much longer on the way back!

Here is where we decided to take a different route back. Both ways should take only 1¼ hours to get back to the Aelpli restaurant. As it is now 14:50, this should be plenty of time to get there by 5 p.m.  

There was a family here in the farm called Kaltbad, which looked like it might be a private summer home. 

From this upper trail we now had a fantastic view past the Fläscher Alp to the Fläsch Valley. The Alpine Roses were just starting to colour the landscape pink here. 

This fabulous mountain is called the Glegghorn, and we walked the trail below it on the way in to the lakes in the Fläsch Valley. 

This was a bit of a difficult section to walk, as a large section of the hillside had come down due to too much rain, bringing all kinds of bushes and dirt with it, covering the trail. 

A close-up look at the peaks called "Vorder Grauspitz" which form the border with Switzerland and Liechtenstein. 

That prominent peak is called the Glegghorn, and we walked below it on the way to the Fläsch Valley. 

Lovely landscape with alpine roses, Mt. Glegghorn behind me, and the Fläsch Valley behind that. 

Turning a corner we came to another large open alpine pasture, actually kind of a high moor, and a very nice view to the Rätikon mountains and the Prättigau region of Canton Graubünden. 

The globe flowers are my favourites, next to daisies!

Now we get a view of the peak called Mt.Vilan (on the left) which is a popular hiking destination. The hillside was all pink from the alpine roses, which are actually only just starting to bloom!

A marshy area with ineresting purple brush flowers. 

Having rounded the other side of the hill again, we now see the saddle called Kamm where we crossed in the morning!

Down below we heard a lot of cow bells, and saw the cows walking single file down the road, so we figured they were being brought to new pastures. 

VIDEO:

The cows are headed to a new pasture, walking down the road...

We made it back to the restaurant and summit station of the cable car at 4:15 p.m., in plenty of time to have something to drink before descending to valley bottom again. This is another view up the Rhine River Valley. 

On the Aelpli restaurant terrace. 

Enjoying cold Panachés, which has sort of become a tradition after our long hikes.

Since we had arrived back to the cable-car station 45 minutes before our reserved 5 p.m. ride (the official final one of the day) we asked if we could descend on the 16:45 run, as it gave us a better connection to the bus. As it turns out, the people who had reserved for 16:45 were running late, and so they let us ride down earlier, which worked out perfectly!

Heading back down toward valley bottom at 16:45 to catch the 16:59 bus back to Landquart train station. 

A look across the village of Malans to the Landquart River, which flows out of the Prättigau. 

It was a tight fit for four people in each cabin, and on this run there was additionally a large dog in each one! (The dog that rode with us was well-behaved and we didn't even notice he was there). 

What our hike looks like on Google Satellite Maps

All the hikes we have done in the region of Landquart, Sargans, the Prättigau and Liechtenstein.