Hike back to Vals from the Lake Zervreila in the Valser Valley

Monday July 15, 2024 -- On our second day in the Valser Valley (Photos of Day1 HERE), we wanted to see the dammed Lake Zervreila at the back of the valley, accessible for us by a one-hour bus ride from Ilanz on the Rhine River, where we had spent the night in a very nice hotel. 

There is a well-known little chapel on a small promontory near the dam, and it had long been Urs' wish to have a look at it. To hike back down to the town of Vals mapped out as a 2½-hour hike, which is simply too short for us! So we sketched out an additional small loop hike on the opposite side of the lake, which mapped at 1½ hours, for a total of four hours. That way we got a longer walk and a look at the lake from both sides. 

As it turned out, both segments took longer, as it often does in mountainous terrain, but there wasn't a lot of difficulty, we had perfect weather (a couple of places in the wind-break were a bit hot), lots of variety, and as usual made it back to the bus stop in Vals with just 10 minutes to spare (just enough time to peek into the church which we hadn't looked into the day before). In the end, we did two five-hour hikes in these two days!

Highlights of the day besides the small church and spectacular views of Lake Zervreila were the long passage over the high moor and the views of the Zervreila Horn, which is nicknamed Graubünden's Matterhorn because of its distinctive peak. And of course cows, waterfalls, Valser water, and the farmers working hard to bring in the hay before the next rain.

At 7:40 a.m., the view out of our hotel window (Hotel Rätia) in Ilanz. Also directly below was a bakery, where we had our breakfast. 

The hotel offered a buffet breakfast, but that is usually too much for us, and we also wanted to get on the first bus back up to the Valser Valley, so we had our breakfast here in the little bakery across from the hotel, a coffee and small pastry.

A look up the valley to where we are headed, shows that it is going to be a pretty nice day!

Here in Ilanz is a major hub for buses in all kinds of directions, into side valleys. Our bus left at 8:35 for the one-hour trip up to the Zervreila Dam. And it was already hot!

The bus ride was fabulous as I got to sit in the front seat. And the driver took the curves much better than the driver from the day before. Our trip heads to the left into the Vals Valley, and here on the right is Val Lumnezia, another valley we need to discover more. 

This little hamlet at the junction of the two valleys is called Uors, and we definitely need to visit this one day!

There is a brand new bridge being built here. 

The larger village at the junction of both valleys is called Surcasti

Heading up the narrow Valser Gorge now, there are a few little chapels along the road. No hiking trails here unfortunately. 

Valser Gorge. The Valser Rhine River flows through here. 

Passing through the town of Vals now, and heading further up the valley than we were the day before. 

To our right as we head up valley, we can see the little hamlet called Leis, which we will be passing through on our way back down the valley. 

And now the first look at the distinctive peak of the Zervreila Horn, and another of so many fabulous dams in this country. 

End of the line at the Restaurant Zervreila. Some people start with a coffee before their hikes. Some of these people are walking along the lakeside, a few were heading up the same way we did, although they went higher as there are smaller lakes on this side of the mountain. 

Starting at 9:40 at the Restaurant Zervreila near the dam, we did a small hike on the east side of the lake, to view the lake and dam from there, before returning to cross the dam, ascend to the chapel at Frunt, and walk back down to Vals. This maps at 4 hours, but was really about 5 hours of straight walking time. We got back to Vals at 4:25 p.m. (about 7 hours). 

As we head up the mountain on the southeast side of the dam, we can see the buildings at Frunt on the other side. The chapel is much smaller than the impression which Urs had!

We see more and more of the lake as we head up the mountainside. 

Here are two small farms called "Gross-" and "Chli-Guraletsch"

View down the Valser Valley as we pass through Guraletsch. 

Further up on the right was an alpine lake called Guraletschsee, which is where the other half-dozen people were headed. It might have made for a nice day trip, had we not really wanted to walk on the other side of the valley. 

This is probably the most we saw of the dam and lake on this side. 

First glimpse of the stunning Zervreila Horn. 

Ah, and what would an alpine hike be without the cows. 

A close-up view of Frunt. (All day there were lots of people walking there. It is part of the panorama trail suggested by the Vals Tourism Office). 

We rounded a corner to discover some Mama and baby cows on our trail! You don't want to mess with them!

Urs makes very large detours when there are baby cows and their mothers on our trail!

VIDEO:

The cows just want to use the hiking trail!

Mt. Zervreilahorn, the "Matterhorn" of Canton Graubünden/Grisons

This is the most we saw of the south part of the lake (it actually splits in both directions at the back). Our goal is the Zervreila Chapel below, and then we head back along the paved road to the dam. 

Zervreila chapel. A quick peek inside, and then we headed back to the dam. 

Another great view-point. There is a road all along the lake on this side, crossing a bridge at the back and then continuing on toward the right. This would have been too boring for us. 

Heading back to the dam. The second part of our hike is across the dam and up the road on the left, ascending to Frunt, and then walking back down the valley to Vals. 

We got back to the dam at 11:45, which means it took us 2 hours from the bus stop, instead of the 1½ hours we thought it would take us as per the map. 

All dams are stunning

Looking across at where we had done our first two-hour hike. 

As we climb higher up from the dam, we see more and more of the lake. 

Fantastic

We got up to the Frunt Chapel (St.Anna, date inscribed above the door is 1754) at 12:30, in time for lunch but all the available benches were occupied. 

This private residence had two large picnic tables on its terrace, and as no one was home, I saw no reason not to sit there to eat my picnic lunch, as all the other available spots were taken. Urs is too proper, he sat on a small stone bench in front of the house. 

A lovely spot, and there were a lot of people walking this trail, both from the dam side and coming up from the other side of the valley where we were now headed. 

The best view of the dam and Lake Zervreila from directly next to the small chapel, which was actually perched right on a vertical cliff. 

After a 20-minute lunch break, time to head on out on the walk down the valley. It's now 12:50.

This high trail had lots of pretty meadows to admire yet again. 

It turned out that this was a very large upper moor, and also officially called the Valser Panorama Trail. According to the Valser Tourism Office, this is the most popular trail in the valley, as we were becoming quickly aware!

We don't often see horses like this out in the pastures. 

Beautiful horses

A look behind us

The cottongrass is pretty

Many people passed us on this panorama trail on their way to the small chapel at Frunt. We were very confused as many were families with small children and we thought it would have been impossible for them to have walked all the way up the mountain. It occurred to us that we had seen a cableway on our way up to the dam, and an Internet check showed that it was running... so that was the reason for all the people up here!

Panels along the way give information about the high moor.

Always glad for a bench to rest on, although we didn't stay long as it was too hot here in the sun. 

Our first glimpse of the town of Vals below, the goal of our hike. 

Heading down the mountain now. 

Below is the little hamlet called Leis, where we knew there was a restaurant, and we were planning to stop there for something to drink. From here we could also see the gondola cableway running up the mountain to the panorama trail.. 

VIDEO:

So much water!

Always some fun details along the way. 

Last stretch into the hamlet of Leis. It's not very big, so we should easily find the restaurant.

We found the restaurant called Ganni, and just our luck, they are closed on Mondays and Tuesdays!

But they did have a small fridge with refreshments (and other homemade items for sale, such as Basil Syrup), so Urs bought a bottle of the locally-produced Valser Water (with lemon balm) which we enjoyed on their deck chairs with a view!

Then we crossed the small square to look at the little church, and this cute fellow followed us everywhere. 

We had a quick look inside the little chapel. It was nicely painted, but you could tell it was more recent artwork, not the usual medieval frescoes. 

Our new little friend would have followed us on the rest of our hike, but Urs ordered him to go back home. Look how dejected he is!

Heading down a section of paved road now with a view of where we descended from the Tomül Pass the day before. Can you see Urs?

After two nice days, there was rain in the forecast again, so the farmers are working very hard to get the dried hay raked up and collected. 

Down below is the pretty covered bridge we passed on the way up by bus. 

The trail passed directly through a field that was currently mowed and dried. The farmer is busy collecting the dried hay, and we had to take big steps over the heaps of it!

VIDEO:

Hard work harvesting hay in the mountains here!

Final stretch into Vals. It's 16:20, and the bus leaves at 16:35, so we might JUST have enough time to pop into the church for a look. 

Main square in Vals, which we passed through from the other side the day before. We had a good five minutes left to check out the interior of the parish church of St.Peter and St.Paul. 

Details of the interior of the Parish church of St.Peter and Paul. More lovely typical Baroque artwork. The first building was from the 15th Century, but as usual, additions were made over the centuries. 

Main square in Vals.

Heading out of the valley now at 4:35 p.m., we get one last look up the hillside which we descended the day before. (We passed over to the left of that massif). 

These are the hikes we have done in the region of the Safien and Rheinwald Valleys, and now we have seen a bit of the Valser Valley as well.

After a 42-minute bus ride back to Ilanz, we board the train and ride back through the Rhine Canyon once again, returning to Chur.

Location of the Valser Valley in Switzerland.