A Winter Walk to the "End of the World" in Engelberg

January 20, 2024 -- After a large dump of snow in the night to Friday in Central Switzerland, and cooler temperatures which kept the snow on the trees for these past two days, we just had to undertake another winter walk in the fabulous snowy landscape, before the snow gets ugly with the warmer temperatures expected this week.

We chose to travel to Engelberg, which is in the heart of the Central Alps and only 90 minutes of travel time for us, and for a change we didn't have too much fog to travel through to get there and back! We timed the start of our hike pretty close to perfectly as the town of Engelberg was still immersed in the shadow of the surrounding steep mountains as we arrived there shortly before 11 a.m., (and it was biting cold, must have been at least -7ºC) but as we ascended on our chosen trail, we soon had sunshine for the entire 7-km walk we did on the north side of the valley.

Even though Engelberg is a popular region for downhill skiiers, the winter trail called "Grottenweg" passes through a ski slope only once, and from there leads along a narrow prepared path into the peacefulness of the forest to the back of a valley with the unusual name: "End of the World"! (It is actually the Horbis Valley).

Officially, you would return along the same path, about 6 kilometers in all and a walking time of just over two hours, but as the roads with their cold-packed snow now also serve as walking trails, there is an alternate path back to Engelberg along the east side of the river. We chose to make this a loop tour, turning it into 7-km walk in all, and were back at the station for the 2 p.m. train back out of the Engelberg Valley.

A perfect choice for this day! There is a German saying "Klein aber fein" which translates to "Small but fine", and that is surely what this was!

N.B. This is actually the second time we did this hike. The first time was on January 1, 2015, so almost exactly 9 years ago!

There was a bit of fog in the Luzern area on our way to Engelberg. This is the Rotsee (Red Lake) on the way from Zug to Luzern

Heading up the Engelberg Valley from Luzern, there was no more fog, and the landscape was beautiful. This is near Grafenort, and I think the mountain is Mt. Brisen, which we also once hiked up to, along that crest. (Photos HERE)

We got to Engelberg shortly before 11 a.m., and the town was still in very cold shadow of the mountain! The pink signs are winter trail signs, and this indcates that it should take an hour to walk to Horbis along the "Grottenweg" (Grotto Trail). Horbis is nicknamed "End of the World".

I had never been inside the Abbey Church in Engelberg, so this was a good time to pop in there, as it was along the way, and I already needed to warm up!

Inside the Engelberg Abbey Church. The Benedictine Monastery was established in 1120 and served as a "double monastery" where both men and women lived, until 1615.

Altar at the Engelberg Benedictine Abbey

Organ at the Engelberg Benedictine Abbey

When we left the church at 11:20, the sun had finally hit the town, and it wasn't nearly as cold anymore!

A look back at the Abbey and the Funeral Chapel. From here there are stairs leading up the hill on the left side of the chapel.

Our 7-km winter walk to "The End of the World" (i.e. into the Horbis Valley) and back to Engelberg. Walking on winter trails takes longer, so this is considered at 2 hour 20 minute walk. We started just after 11 a.m., and caught the 2 p.m. train back home.

Heading up the steps next to the Abbey, the sun is just appearing over the mountains.

The cows are out of the barn enjoying the sunshine as well. The Brunni Cable Car is packed full of skiiers! There was another winter trail which we could have walked starting from the summit station of this cable car, but we didn't want to be squashed in with all those skiiers!

Heading away from the town of Engelberg.

This is the only time we had to cross a ski hill. This particular ski hill (Klostermatte) is geared toward young skiiers or people just learning.

Cable cars crossing above us

Now the path becomes narrower as we head into the Horbis Valley. That mountain ahead is called the Hahnen.

Looking down into the Engelberg Valley. There is another 10-km winter trail heading up that valley, but at this time of year, it seems to be in shadow for most of the day!

An Alpine Chough (Alpindohle)

Lovely narrow prepared trails through snowy forests

Glimpses of the mountain to the northeast on the other side of the Horbis Valley

To the south is suburb we will walk through othe way back, and all the way down at the Engelberger Aa river, the valley is still in shadow (and probably for the rest of the day). Directly behind that mountain, where the sun currently is, is the summit of Mount Titlis.

A sign advertises the "End of the World Restaurant" in Horbis

Here at Vorderhorbis we cross a small stream called the Bärenbach, so that we can continue along the trail on the East side of the river (on the west side is the wide road to Horbis). We can now see the mountains at the back of the Horbis Valley, the "End of the World"

What a great day!

So magical

Along this section we found a bench in the sun, where we stopped to have our sandwiches.

Our picnic bench, the perfect spot and the ideal time (12:15)

From our picnic bench we can see across the valley to the popular ski region of the Joch Pass and Lake Trübsee, which is located behind the vertical cliff. You can just barely make out the summit station of the Engelberg-Trübsee cableway.

A closer-up look at the summit station of the Engelberg-Trübsee cable-way. From here the travelers connect to the Titlis cableway, which ascends to the left. The Jochpass is in the center of the photo. We rode cableways on both sides of this pass most recently in August of 2022 during a hike we did on the other side of the pass (those photos are HERE)

Also from our bench we admired this lovely winter landscape!

Another wider look at the beautiful winter landscape at the foot of Mount Hahnen. Back in October 2019 we did a hike there, starting at Fürenalp further back in the Engelberg Valley, and descending to Horbis near here. Those photos are HERE.

Last corner before we reach the "End of the World".

These ice crystals growing on the metal wire were quite lovely.

A look at the very back of the Horbis Valley now. This is called the "End of the World".

We strolled to the back of the parking lot next to the "End of the World Restaurant", but didn't stop here for a drink. We headed back pretty much right away.

Turning around now and heading back out of the Horbis Valley, our first stop is the small chapel, to have a look inside.

The "Marienkapelle" in Horbis was built in 1489, enlarged in 1635, and renovated three times. It is the oldest chapel in the valley.

I was once again most impressed with the lovely painted wood panels in the ceiling. Also, we had never seen side altars which actually covered the entire front wall of the church. Very pretty!

In the main altar was a Black Madonna. The only other one we have ever seen is in the large Abbey in Einsiedeln. Apparently, in the Aramaic language, "Black" means "Sorrowful". Mary is often depicted as sorrowful.

The chapel also had a very exquisite door. The paintings on either side were also intriguing. They looked VERY old.

I'm no art expert, but upon closer look, the paintings seemed to be originals, and the dates on them were 1640 and 1641. I could find no information about these paintings, though.

This is the trail we came up, but we have decided to follow the vehicle road for the walk out of the valley.

On the way back, we chose to take a different trail, along the road on the west side of the stream this time. With these winter conditions, it was just as pretty to walk here.

Back at the bridge that crosses the stream, we returned to the east side again. Another look at the back of the Horbis Valley.

Heading back down into the Engelberg Valley. These are regular paved roads now, but because the snow is hard-packed, it is just as nice to walk on as the other trails.

A pretty door on this house.

Here again are signs to advertise that a baby was born recently! This one's name is Benno, born in June of 2023!

Another look behind us as we descend out of the Horbis Valley .

Passing some very nice buildings here.

Another look behind us

We found an old water wheel!

A very cool neighbourhood, probably vacation homes for winter skiing!

All kinds of neat paintings on the outer walls here.

Passing by the parking lot to the large-cabin cable car. You can really see the "End of the World" from here! Also, a good look at the Klostermatte ski hill, where little people (or big ones) learn how to ski!

This is a huge Abbey. After 1615, colonies from here established orders in many other countries including the US and Mexico. According to Wikipedia: "The abbey buildings were almost entirely destroyed by fire in 1729 but were rebuilt in a substantial style and so remain to the present day." There used to be a cheese dairy in the monastery, but it was closed in March of 2023.

This is the Kempinski Palace Hotel near the train station. It costs about 700-1000 Fr. per night to stay here!

Another cute building next to the train station.

Catching the 2 p.m. train back home. It's early, and we had good three hours of sunshine, but we didn't want to hang around any longer.

A look back as we leave Engelberg. Still a lot of shadow here at 2 p.m.

The hikes we have done in the Engelberg Region.

The hikes we have done in the Engelberg Region. The one we did this day is the loop in light pink.

The rest of these photos are from the ride home, which was only an hour and 45 minutes for us. There was no fog all the way home, and the countryside everywhere was simply stunning to look at.

Passing Grafenort on our way down the Engelberg Valley. The peak, I believe, is Mount Brisen, the same mountain I photographed when we passed here in the morning.

The lovely Engelberg Valley.

Heading toward Luzern, this is near Wolfenschiessen. I recognize this house from when we walked past it on a hike we did in November 2020, here's that PHOTO