The Vineyards of Bündner Herrschaft in Heidi Country

Wednesday November 29, 2023 -- This turned out to be a surprisingly beautiful day, so unexpected with rain and snow both the day before and the day after. So we had to chose carefully where to do our Wednesday hike. We had planned to walk from Rapperswil on Lake Zürich across the lake on the boardwalk and then along the lakeshore. Generally not my favourite kind of hike but it was supposed to be more sunshine there than elsewhere, and only an hour of travel time.

We were already on our way there when we saw webcams of the Rhine Valley between Chur and Sargans with beautiful sunshine, but a fresh layer of snow right down to valley bottom. There was a vineyard hike in the Bündner Herrschaft Region which I have long wanted to do and I prefer mountain views, but due to my indecision, we got out for the lake walk, which I regretted right away, realizing the lake walk is something we can do any other time. So we decided to head to the mountains anyway, with an hour's delay, which means instead of finishing the 3-hour hike at 2 p.m., we finished at 3 p.m., when the sun was going down.

But the day wasn't lost: A) we had 30 minutes to kill in Pfäffikon, so we went to have a look at the moated castle near the train station (almost missed the next train though), and B) we still had plenty of sunshine in the Rhine Valley and such fantastic views of the surrounding mountains which got their first dusting of snow to about half-height, so we still saw the fall colours, the vineyards, the sheep in the vineyards, and fortress ruins on the mountains. It was an easy and pleasant 11-km walk. Furthermore, we found out that this is the region which features in the popular children's book called Heidi.

PART I -- Quick walk to the Pfäffikon Castle

Because of my indecision about which hike to do today, we got out of the train too early and lost some time backtracking. Taking a train an hour later from Pfäffikon gave us exactly 30 minutes for a short walk to the lakeshore and past the Pfäffikon castle (available only for events). We did have to sprint back to the train station, though.

City hall in Pfäffikon on the left, and the Castle Chapel on the left. The chapel was consecrated in 1568.

Inside the castle chapel

The moated castle now known as the "Pfäffikon Tower" is part of a compound that used to be called the Weissenburg Castle. The tower was built in the 13th Century. It is currently only used for events and exhibitions. 

A look back at the castle chapel and the moat as we make our way to the boat dock on the lake. 

Urs spotted the heron standing next to the moat!

From the boat dock, a look eastward across Lake Zurich to a small island called Ufenau. A boat that travels on Lake Zurich makes a stop here, something I have not yet done, but definetely need to do!

The short 30-minute walk we did from Pfäffikon train station to have a look at the Pfäffikon Tower, which we have observed many times when passing by here on the train. Because we went into the town hall building to ask about the tower, we lost some time and had to race back to the train station to not miss our train.  

PART II -- Vineyard Hike in Heidi Country

After having traveled less than an hour from home to Pfäffikon, it was another 1¼ hours' travel to the town of Malans near Landquart, where we started on our hike at noon, finishing at 3:15 p.m. just as the sun was setting. The 11-km walk was through a large region of vineyards called the Bündtner Herrschaft -- Gateway to Canton Graubünden -- and is the home of the famous storybook character HEIDI. We're so glad we decided to change plans and do the "mountain" hike instead of the lakeside walk. 

Heading south along the Rhine Valley by train, we just passed Lake Walensee on our way to Landquart. This would also have been a great place to hike this day. The chapel on the hill is called St.George, and we hiked up there in June 2021, those photos are HERE

And now we are in the Bündner Herrschaft Region, passing the village of Jenins, which we walked through later. Basically, we did an 11-km walk at the base of those mountains. 

Our hike started in the village of Malans, which we reached by train from Landquart. Here are the first vineyards, as we head north out of the village. 

Our walk started in Malans at noon, with a detour to Maienfeld. (The inspiration for the beloved storybook character Heidi is a small hamlet near Bovel, which we didn't detour to). The walk ended in the very small village of Fläsch, from where we caught the 3:15 p.m. bus back to Bad Ragaz train station. 

A look south across the wide Rhine Valley plain. The sculpture is cute!

A look south across the wide Rhine Valley in the direction of Chur. This region is known as the Gateway of Canton Graubünden. (Chur is also the oldest city in Switzerland). 

When we had been studying the webcams on the way here, we were a little worried about snow on the ground, but all the roads and the path we took were snow-free. 

These mountains to our right as we head north form the border with the country of Liechtenstein. This is apparently the warmest wine-growing region in German-speaking Switzerland, with 45 different varieties of grapes and 50 different types of wines produced, the most predominant being the Blauburgunder. 

I caught sight of a buzzard....

The snow half-way down the mountains made for such a pretty picture. Just visible on the hillside is a small fortress ruins, I think it is called Wynegg

A bit further north is another fortress ruins just visible below the snow line. That one is called "Neu Aspermont".

And here is a close-up look at the two castle ruins we saw on the mountainside!

In many of the vineyards there were temporary enclosures with herds of sheep grazing there! I guess they don't nibble on the actually grape vines and trunks!

We are being watched again!

Some interesting clouds! (Also, see the ruins?)

Now we are near the village of Jenins, and the dominant mountains ahead of us are Gonzen and Gauschla, which form the junction of the Rhine Valley to the East (border with Lichtenstein) and the Seez Valley to the West (the River which runs into Lake Walensee) at the city of Sargans. 

Heading into Jenins

Interesting sculpture in someone's garden!

Urs selecting a local cheese (which he basically consumed on the train ride home). I waited outside for him, and waited a long time, as he apparently couldn't find the cash box into which you make your payment! (Which turns out to be the cow bell on the left). 

Since this is wine country, there are many signs, paintings and decorations celebrating the production of wine!

More sheep in more vineyards!

The church tower in Jenins

Easy and pleasant walk....

Next to those trees on the right is a bench, where we had a snack break at 1:20 p.m. (having eaten our sandwiches on the train) with a view across the town of Maienfeld.

Sitting on a bench, enjoying the view across Maienfeld toward the Tamina Gorge. 

On a hill above the Tamina Gorge is the village of Pfäffers. The church building used to be a monastery, but it is now a psychiatric clinic. Barely visible above the cliffs (bottom right), just highlighted by sunshine, are more ruins which we visited when we walked out of this valley, also in JUNE 2021. 

We're on the way to Ober Rofels now, before descending into the city of Maienfeld. The signs point to a trail called the "Heidi Trail" and to Heididorf (Heidi's Village) where the 300-year-old house stands, which was the inspiration for the birth house of the fictional character Heidi. (See also HERE). Apparently, the little village shop contains the smallest post office outlet in Switzerland. We didn't have time to take that detour, but it's now on our list of things we want to see! 

Here above the town of Maienfeld, the vineyards were enclosed by some old stone walls. Look how well-tended the farms are!

A close-up look at the tower of the Maienfeld castle. 

Also visible above the wall and rooftops is the church tower

More sheep in vineyards as we approach the outskirts of Maienfeld. 

We took a little detour around the castle buildings (there is a restaurant in the castle)

On the north side of the castle. This could be part of the castle? But it looks like apartments. 

The painting on the wall depicts a local political event from 1797

Details in the city of Maienfeld

The entrance to the church was tucked away off the main street. Since we were here, I had a quick look inside. 

Here's the inside of the church, it was plain, but all the wood is pretty. There was someone just practising the organ when I came in. 

Grape vines everywhere! There are 19 vintners in Maienfeld, and apparently every weekend between April and October, any one of them open their doors to the public. 

This is someone's private front entrance!

A look behind us at the church steeple as we join back onto the vineyard trail. 

From our map, we knew there was a castle on our trail. That is the castle tower. 

There were many such displays along the way, advertising local wines or wine tasting, showing off the different labels and such. 

Schloss Salenegg (the castle) is also a winery, offering access to the castle grounds (a nice surprise) and wine tasting, which I'm not interested in. 

Entrance to the castle grounds. Also, that is  pretty cool painting on the castle wall!

Back side of the Salenegg castle

So many arches! Urs is reading the sign that says to ring the bell if you want to arrange a wine tasting. 

The water spouts from the eaves are a work of art!

View tow the Maienfeld castle tower from Salenegg Castle grounds. 

More sheep in more vineyards as we continue north toward our destination of Fläsch.

And a photo of me in the vineyards!

Another look behind us at the town of Maienfeld, and way beyond that the town of Zizers (I believe)

Crossing a small stream before reaching the village of Fläsch, the final stop on our hike. 

Village of Fläsch. We had 15 minutes to kill before the bus came, so had enough time for a short walk around the village. 

Another winery, in Fläsch.

The evangelical church in Fläsch, dating from approximately 1465-1479. This was apparently the first parish in Canton Graubünden to accept the Evangelical beliefs in 1524 during the period of the Reformation. The building is under national monument protection. 

Details of the church in Fläsch. The floor artwork is made of grains and seeds, not glued, just placed on the board! Very nice work. As was so often the case during the Reformation period, the frescoes were whitewashed to hide the paintings, which in this case were recovered and restored in 1962.

At 3:15 p.m. we took a bus to the train station in Bad Ragaz. Here we are crossing the Rhine River. 

What our hike looks like on Google Satellite Maps

The hikes we have done so far in the region of the Rhine Valley between Landquart and Sargans.

The Churfirsten Mountains on the east side of Lake Walensee on our way home. I take a photo of these mountains each time we pass by here. 

Location of Bündner Herrschaft in Switzerland. The region is known as the "Gateway" to Canton Graubünden, and is very near to the country of Liechtenstein. The Rhine River follows the border between Switzerland and Liechtenstein, to empty into Lake Constance.