Hike over the Steinalper-Jochli from Isenthal to Klewenalp

Sunday October 8, 2023 -- After traveling such a long way for the hike we did the day before, we kept it close to home this time, and did a hike over a pass that we had wanted to do for a while, from the Isenthal Valley (where we had also been recently) in Canton Uri over the border into Canton Nidwalden to the Brisen Alpine Hostel, and ending at Klewenalp above Lake Luzern. 

This is a region where we have done so much hiking already, and in particular, when we walked to the summit of Mount Brisen last year (those photos are HERE), we passed via the Steinalperjoch saddle on that hike, and determined to one day cross it in the East-West direction. So that was the plan for this day. Quite a challenge though, as it was a straight-up hike of 600 meters (two hours). What surprised us was how warm the air temperature was when we left the summit of the St.Jakob/Gitschenen cable car station, and were we glad that we had a slight breeze for most of the ascent!

With the exception of one other hiker, we were alone on this ascent, but on the other side there were very many people this Sunday, all them them wanting to summit Mt.Brisen on this beautiful day. Even on the descent there were many people on the trail. We stopped for a light lunch of gulasch soup at the Brisenhaus restaurant, even though we had brought our sandwiches. It wasn't our best experience, much too expensive for the broth with three small pieces of meat (and definitely not homemade)! 

From there to Klewenalp was less exciting as most of the trail was along a wide road, and it's a popular destination on a Sunday, so there were a lot of people there as well. A large-cabin cable-way takes you down to lake level from Klewenalp, and from there, the fastest way for us to get home was with another boat ride on Lake Luzern, in the direction of Brunnen. 

It turned out to be a very good choice for the day. 

With another warm day, and a Sunday at that, we expected a lot of people to be heading into the side valleys of the Reuss Valley, so we started very early. Here we are crossing the Reuss River by bus at 8:30 a.m. The bus was full even at this hour.

Heading up the winding Isenthal road with a look north along Lake Uri

The sun is just rising and starting to illuminate the steep mountain flanks on the west side of Lake Uri. 

Heading up into one of our favourite valleys: Isenthal. Just two weeks earlier we had traveled into the side valley to the left, those photos are HERE. 

At the final bus stop in the Isenthal Valley is a small cable-way which takes you up to the alpine pastures called Gitschenen. This is the start of many hikes we have done over the years. There were only 8 people from the bus who wanted to come up here, and the cabin holds eight, so we didn't have to wait. 

On previous occasions we have crossed the "Hinter Jochli" Pass to the north, and the Schonegg Pass to the west. This time we are going over the Steinalper Jochli, two hours from the cable car station. We didn't take any breaks during the climb, and made it in exactly two hours. 

We started at 9:15 at the summit station of the St.Jakob cable car, and the first two hours were spent just ascending the 620 meters to the pass. The descent to Klewenalp was another two hours. At the pass, we crossed from Canton Uri (east) to Canton Nidwalden (West and North). 

Heading off on our hike. There was only one other lady who walked at about the same distance from us the whole way. And it was already so warm that I had to change into shorts. 

That pass is our first challenge of the day: 620 meters ascent, takes about two hours. 

There are still some cows in the pastures up here! These babies are so cute. 

This farm at Geissboden is where the cows spend the summer. (Later they will most likely walk down to the Isenthal Valley, to where we caught the cable-car). 

A steep trail means you gain altitude quickly. We were lucky to have a cool breeze, or it might have been too hot, even on this October day. 

A look behind us as we climb toward the Steinalper Jochli. 

Nearing the pass now (off photo on the left), we look northward to the ridge we walked the last time we were here, in August 2022. That was another spectacular hike. Those photos are HERE. 

Not far now. This time we are crossing the pass from east to west/north. Last time we came down from Mount Brisen on our left, walked via the Steinalper Jochli Pass across the flank of that mountain straight ahead. There is a trail at pass level, just above the carved cliffs. 

Once in a while we spot some birds. This one, I believe, is a female Black Redstart (Hausrotschwanz in German)

So here we are at the pass (Steinalper Jochli), at 11:18, exactly two hours from when we started at the cable-car station. Any exhaustion felt along the way is immediately forgotten when you reach "the top"!!

The fantastic view down the valley which we just ascended, all the way to the still-green alpine pastures of Gitschenen where we started, and beyond that to the saddle we crossed two weeks earlier, above center in the photo (along the ridge from the Uri Rotstock on the right). And way far at the back are the mountains of Schwyz and Glarus

Straight ahead is the trail we followed last time. This time we are descending on the left, to the Brisenhaus and Klewenalp, another two hours approximately. 

And this is the fantastic view that greets us on the west side of the pass. Mount Stanserhorn in the center, Mount Pilatus beyond that. And the city of Luzern far back on the right. 

This group of young fellows are on their way to the summit of Mount Brisen (to the left). We stopped here for a small break and watched many other people either coming down from Mount Brisen or heading up, all of them coming from or going to Klewenalp. 

The ascent to Mount Brisen to the south, where so many people are headed this day. 

A zoomed view of the summit of Mt.Brisen

On the right is where our trail continues. Center back is the city of Luzern. 

On our way again now, heading north along the trail. The geology up here is ever-fascinating and never gets boring. 

Heading north

A perfect and mild October day to do this fantastic hike in the Nidwalden mountains, not far from our home. 

Now we can see the Brisenhaus (a Swiss Alpine Club Hostel). The top of the mountain in the center is called Musenalp, and we have been there often. In fact, most recently (in May of this year) I hiked up there on my own from Klewenalp, those photos are HERE. 

We got to the Brisenhaus at 12:40, and Urs wanted to eat something here, even though we had sandwiches along. Urs likes to stop at the mountain hostels, but I am always wary of people smoking. 

There wasn't a large selection on the menu, but the gulasch soup sounded good even though it was 10 CHF for a bowl! And turns out it was just a lot of spicy broth with about three tiny pieces of meat and potato, and tasted just like the gulasch out of the can. But the lemon Radler was good, that's always good. 

At least no one smoked. We were here for about 40 minutes. Continued on our hike at 13:20

Most of the rest of the trail to the cable-car at Klewenalp was along a wide road, which was OK until we got to the paved part. 

Ahead of us is the resort at Klewenalp. The hardest part of the hike was the ascending slope of the paved road, about 30 minutes from the lowest point! The cable-car station and the end of our hike is at the arrow. 

The final (and hardest!) stretch. Behind Urs is the pass where we crossed (arrow) and we also passed by those buildings in the center. 

A glimpse now to the northwest to Mount Bürgenstock, and past that to Weggis on the next promontory, and past the Küssnacht arm of Lake Luzern are Meggen and Merlischachen. 

We caught the cable-car to Beckenried at 14:35, very early for us to already be heading home!

View east along the south side of Luzern, all the way to the Mythen mountains at the back. (We caught the boat in that direction after getting to lake level. It's the fastest way for us to get home!)

Arriving in Beckenried. 

What our hike looks like on Google Satellite Maps, starting at the back of the Isenthal Valley, and ending at Klewenalp. 

I'm not a dog person, but these guys are cute.

Our boat arriving from Luzern, heading to Brunnen and Flüelen. It's now 15:25. 

As we head eastward on the lake, the steamship "Stadt Luzern" arrives at Beckenried where a whole lot of people were waiting to board in the direction of Luzern to the northwest. 

Passing another ship on its way to Luzern. In the background is Mount Pilatus. 

Docking at Treib at the foot of Mount Seelisberg

A look south down the Uri arm of Lake Luzern as we approach Brunnen where we catch the bus and train. The Isenthal Valley is one of the valleys on the right. (We were home by 5:15 p.m.! Still time to enjoy some additional sunshine on the balcony). 

We have done many hikes in this region, and still have many more planned!

The region of Isenthal and Klewenalp in Switzerland. This is very close to where we live.