Summit of Brienzer Rothorn to Sörenberg in the UNESCO Biosphere Entlebuch

Wednesday September 20, 2023 -- Today we took a risk which paid off for us: We have special tickets to ride the Brienz-Rothorn steam train in Canton Bern on Lake Brienz near Interlaken, and as the weather was to be nice there, we decided on this outing. We were lucky to get the last two seats on the only run up the mountain which wasn't fully booked yet (8:30!!), and that only by luck because we had troubles with the Internet reservations. 

We have ridden this train twice before (Aug.2019 and Sept.2014), so it wasn't so important for me to photograph the steam train. Our goal was the hike we had planned, which started at the summit station of the train line, and followed the crest of the mountain, from where we crossed into the Entlebuch region of Canton Luzern to the north, another 3½-hour hike for us and much more downhill than what we had originally planned! 

We were also lucky with the weather, clear skies at the start and good views of the Bernese Alps at the summit (where it was actually icy cold!), although the skies did get overcast once we started on our descent on the north side of the mountain. I would have liked more sunshine, but at least it wasn't hot further down.

We had a fabulous surprise as Urs spotted an ibex lounging very near the hiking trail, and we did a photo shoot with him -- he really didn't seem bothered! As we continued along the crest, a herd of at least 50 chamois caught his eye on the southern flank of the mountain. Unfortunately our hiking plans were not for that direction, or we might have gotten to see them closer up. And the north passage also held a surprise for us: A very long and steep stairway down the mountain! There were chain handholds, which was a good thing, as the individual steps were wet and muddy from recent rains.

Although the second half of the hike was mostly on wide roads (and this is more tiring than narrow and tricky mountain trails), in all it wasn't a bad day out! 

We left home again at 6 a.m. so that we could get to Brienz by 8:33, which gave us only three minutes to get to the Brienz-Rothorn station across the street, and to sort out our reservation, which we phoned in on the way there as the online credit card reservation wasn't working. 

About an hour before getting here, the Reservation System showed 20 free spots on this train up the mountain, but by the time we got here, the spots were all taken. The lady at the ticket counter was annoyed that our phone reservation wasn't passed on to her, she kept saying "phone reservations" aren't allowed... and then she just gave us the tickets and said "get on quick, the train needs to leave!" And they did actually find two spots for us. 

Heading past the chalets of Brienz as the train starts its 55-minute journey up the mountain

Lake Brienz comes into sight

Very cool with the clouds hanging on the mountainside

Nearing the top now, as the train passes through some tunnels and a gallery on its way to the summit station. 

Side note: Back in 2014 when we first rode this train, we had been surprised by a young ibex peeking into one of the "windows "in one of the tunnels!

VIDEO:

Sights and sounds from the Brienz-Rothorn steam train.

View from the summit along Lake Brienz as we arrived at about 9:30 (so about 3½ hours to get to the start of our hike). The popular city of Interlaken is at the far end of this lake. 

A photo with the Brienz-Rothorn Train (too many people at the locomotive, so no photos of that). 

Here's the train heading back down with a few people who probably spent the night up here, as this was the first train ride of the day. 

We waited to watch the train heading back down the mountain below. Lake Brienz really is that colour. 

Close-up of the little steam train pulling the panorama wagons down the mountain. (On the way up, the locomotive pushes the wagons). 

VIDEO:

The Brienz-Rothorn Train heading down the mountain again.

Information about the Brienz Rothorn Bahn: The 7600-m railway line was built in 16 months in 1891-92. Travels at 9 km/hr. The locomotive requires 300 kg of coal and 2000 liters of water for one trip up the mountain. (There is a stop about half-way up the mountain where they have to fill up the water tanks.). 

From the summit we look north into the Entlebuch region of Canton Luzern. Below is the resort town of Sörenberg. We are walking down into that valley, but further down to the left. 

Me posing with the fantastic view, but it's windy and icy cold!

A zoomed view of Mounts Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau to the south, with thick clouds pressing their way over the Jungfraujoch. 

We took a little walk in the opposite direction from where we were going to hike, to past the hotel and restaurant. The actual summit of Mount Brienzer Rothorn is actually behind me, but we didn't go up there as we had been last time. 

Returning now to the level of the train station, to start our hike walking westward at about 10:15. 

That large peak is called Mount Tannhorn, and there is an unofficial trail across that whole ridge, but it is not advised to walk there unless you are a very practised hiker. We didn't go that far, but rather descended before the smaller peak on the right. 

The trail we are walking this day is part of Trail no.65: Grenzweg Napfbergerland. We are basically doing the hike to Kemmeribodenbad, but descended to Sörenberg beforehand. There are ibex living on the north slopes of this mountain, thus there is also a themed trail called the "Steinbock Trek", or "Ibex Trek". Also, a comment on the sign had me intrigued: "Lättgässli, vorsicht steiler Abstieg" = "Careful, steep descent". 

From the summit station of the Brienz-Rothorn Bahn, we first walked a short way toward the summit of Mount Brienzerrothorn, then headed West along the Brienzergrat ridge, down through the Lättgässli and to the restaurant at Salwideli (which was closed due to renovations). The trail continues from there to Kemmeribodenbad to the west, but we headed to the nearest bus stop on the road from Sörenberg to Schüpfheim. It was a long descent of over 1300 meters. 

This peak is called Schöngütsch. There is a trail to the summit, and there were people at the top, but we decided we didn't want to go up there so we walked along its base. (It's along the trail to the summit that we later discovered the ibex). 

The trail along the base of Mt. Schöngütsch. It was here that we turned around to look back, and a good thing we did, or we would not have spotted the ibex!

So Urs says to me: "Hey, aren't those horn peeking out of the grass, I think it's an ibex!", so we turned around and headed up toward it on another small trail up the mountain!

For this photo I got as close as possible to the ibex, but he didn't feel comfortable, so that's when he stood up. I moved quickly, though, because you never know what such an animal will do!

Such a magnificent animal, with majestic horns, which they have to carry around all day! This is a loner, possibly banished from his herd by a stronger male. 

Seriously, he didn't seem bothered at all by the hikers walking just maybe 3-4 meters past him! Urs is setting up to take a similar photo of me.... 

Close to the ibex, and a nice view down into the Haslital Valley. 

Time to head back down to the main trail and continue on our exciting hike. 

For now, we had the perfect walking weather and what a view!

Panorama view of the hillside on the south side of the Brienzer Crest. 

An exciting section of the crest that is part of our trail (further on is not recommended, although there are people who do it). 

Urs spotted a large herd of chamois on the hillside below! (I never would have noticed them). He estimates there were about 50 of them!

A close-up of the chamois. 

VIDEO:

Close-up view of the large herd of chamois on the mountainside

This is the slope where the large herd of chamois were grazing

So now we come to the place called "Lättgässli". We were warned by signs earlier that this would be a steep descent. Down at the arrow is the road we followed later. 

And it was! A steep descent, and quite exciting. But the cables made it easier. We did move slowly though, as there was a layer of mud on the steps, from recent rains. 

It's hard to believe that there are pretty flowers growing here!

All of a sudden, six other people caught up to us, heading down the "Lättgässli"

It was actually the section below the steps which was more difficult, "slippery" due to all the rocks and gravel on the trail. 

We stopped here at 11:45 for our picnic lunch, before tackling the very steep descent into the Entlebuch on the north side of Mount Brienzerrothorn. 

The colours on this hillside were so pretty

There were three steep sections like this one. Goal is that farmhouse below, and then the road to the left. This whole pasture is called Blatte. 

Here's the mountainside we came down from. Slowly and carefully.

We had seen these girls from higher up, but they all came to see what we were about!

The Oberblatte farmhouse, where we headed to the left afterwards

Some more curious cows, very little ones this time!

I love how the owners of these farmhouses decorate their properties with such colourful flowers. 

A nice-looking barn

This mountain called Schrattenflue is the dominant geological feature here, and consists mainly of Karst geology. 

Another farmhouse with lovely flowers

We got to the Salwideli restaurant at 14:10, and were hoping to stop there for an ice-cream sundae. But we had wondered why it was deathly quiet on our way there... well, it's closed for renovations, and there is a self-serve kiosk. But also, it was only 45 minutes to our bus stop at Südelhöchi, and the bus was due to pass there at 14:58, so in exactly 48 minutes, and we are good at that, getting to the bus stop with only minutes to spare, so that's what we did. 

But oh, there's a little shop, we still have to stop and check in there, maybe something cold to drink after all? But they wanted 5 CHF for a cold drink, and usually we never pay more than 3 CHF, so we did without. 

A look to the South to the Brienzer Crest. We can actually see exactly where we descended from the Lättgässli. 

Hurrying to the road to catch the 14:58 bus from Sörenberg, otherwise we'd have to wait an hour for the next bus!

I still had time to photograph the pastures, now full of Autumn Crocuses.... so pretty!

And a look up the Marien Valley to Sörenberg just before getting to the road, with over 5 minutes to spare! From there we were home in 90 minutes. 

From Brienz in Canton Bern it takes an hour for the steam train to make its way up to the station at the Brienzer Crest, which is the Canton border. On the other side, where we descended, is the Entlebuch region of Canton Luzern. 

All the hikes we have done in this region. 

Location of Mount Brienzer Rothorn and Sörenberg.