Monte Generoso, the "Stone Flower", and the Unique Stone Cooling Houses

Sunday July 16, 2023 -- On this day the weather was most acceptable in the very south once again, so we chose an opportunity to ride up to the summit of Monte Generoso with Switzerland's oldest cogwheel train, operating since 1890. (A side note: There are only 30 pure cogwheel railways in the world, and 17 of them are in Switzerland. We have now ridden on all but one of them).

We knew it would be very hot near Lugano, but the temperatures on the summit promised to be only around 20-24 degrees. We chose to do a themed trail called "Sentiero del Monte Generoso" which featured a couple of tiny mountain hamlets with unique "refrigerators" called "Nevère" (from the Italian word "Neve" = "snow"), deep cylindrical stone structures which -- before we had electricity -- were filled in winter with snow to store milk and cheese which kept cool all summer as the snow slowly melted.

Our hike started at the prominent structure at the summit station, a large restaurant called "Fiore di Pietra" (=Stone Flower) -- another Mario Botta creation completed in 2017 -- and a walk to the look-out platform at the very peak of the mountain, before descending on the south side of the mountain and to the next stop along the railway line called Bellavista. The clouds forecast for the morning showed up for a change only when we had to do the single 20-minute uphill stretch, so we felt the heat only when we got back down to the valley bottom.

Since this was not a very long hike (2-1/2 hours) and having come this far, we rode down to the next station called S. Nicolao to visit a typical Ticino Grotto Restaurant with an adjoining chapel, which we had seen on our map. Unfortunately for us, there was a family event going on at the time with many guests for lunch, so all the tables were taken. But the proprietor was excellent: He sat us on a bench next to the chapel, and brought us the tiniest table, on which we could set the Macchiati (tiny coffees) we ordered!

This is the valley "station" of the Monte Generoso train, at Capolago on the south end of Lake Lugano. We got here early to make sure we were one of the first on the first run of the day at 9:25. There weren't too many people on the train, which is unusual, but appreciated!

The full trip to the summit takes 40 minutes. For the first 10 minutes until the train passes through a tunnel to the east side of the mountain, it runs along this narrow, steep and winding cogwheel rail on the west side. Hard to imagine that this was built in 1890!

The mountainside drops steep down here on the west side, to the large industrial city of Mendrisio. This is near the Italian border, and the hills in the back are in Italy. 

The second of three stops at Bella Vista station. This is where we walked down to, from the summit, and rode to the first station further down, from where we visited the San Nicolao grotto and chapel. 

The train slows at two spots on the way up the mountain, to give the passengers the chance to have the first glimpses of the panorama northwards toward Lugano. 

The summit station of the Monte Generoso train is right here at the fantastic structure called "Fiore di Pietra" (Stone Flower), a creation of Switzerland's most prolific architect: Mario Botta. It was completed in 2017, and came about because the original restaurant here (built in 1970) started "slipping", and was torn down in 2014. 

From the entrance of the building, this is the first view you get down to Lake Lugano. But we decided to head to the summit for a better view. (We were up here shortly after 10 a.m.)

Originally we were going to start right on our hike from the restaurant below, having been to the summit before in May of 2019 (with much better visibility, those photos are HERE), but because our hike was relatively short, we made the detour again. 

We always feel bad when we encounter these beautiful animals on the trails. To prevent an inattentive person from stepping on it, we move it to the grass on the side. But which way was it really going? Did we just add several hours to its journey????

The main reason for detouring up here was to get my photo with the "Grand Tour of Switzerland" Frame, which was not here the last time we were here!

A close-up look at the "Fiore di Pietra" from above. 

The observation platform at the hightest point of the Monte Generoso summit. Those goats are a hoot!

A steep look down at Lago di Lugano

The next peak to the north also sports a "Via Ferrata" (or climbing) Trail. Last time we were here, we walked along the trail on the right, which is actually in Italy, as the border line goes right over this summit where we are standing, and across the top of the next one. (Switzerland on the left, Italy on the right of this photo)

I wonder what this girl is looking at, so concentrated....

The structure at the very top of that peak to the southwest is an astronomical observatory

The border with Italy also runs across the crest in the foreground. This is a ridge we hope to walk one day as well. The mountain behind that is also half in Italy. So weirdly, here there is a part of Italy NORTH of Switzerland. The goat is enjoying the view as well!

Standing on the border of Switzerland and Italy!

Now we are heading off down the summit to the trail we have planned for the day. A final look at the Lake Lugano side. Right "above my head" is the city of Lugano at the top of the lake, and the house mountain there: Monte San Salvatore. The visibility this day isn't nearly as good as the last time we were here. 

Walking along the crest here along the Italy/Switzerland border. There is some sort of bear-themed trail here, and so I had to take a photo of "Urs = Bear" with the bear. 

This is a look over the mountains of Italy to the east. We are headed to Nadigh (30 minutes), but you can also descend here down the Italian side of the mountain, to a village called Erbonne. 

A look down into the valley on the Italian side to the village called Erbonne. 

It is fascinating to look at the village of Erbonne from above, as we had passed through this on our hike in May 2019 when we first came up here (we hiked on the Italian side. Those photos are HERE). I can see exactly where we entered the village at the church, from the left. 

After the detour to the look-out platform, we descended along the Italian border to Nadigh, where we saw the first of the Nèvere (the others we saw were on Alpe Génor). Then an uphill section where the clouds fortunately "hid" the sun, and then a descent to the Bellavista station. 

Heading down the trail along the Swiss/Italian border. 

This themed trail is local trail no.635: "Sentiero del Monte Generoso". The "Stone Flower" is visible from all directions!

A pretty butterfly

First look at the cluster of stone houses called Nadigh. These houses are still inhabited. In fact, there were people there when we inspected the hamlet. 

The hamlet of Nadigh

Further down the hill is a village called Roncapiano, which is in Switzerland, and actually the final stop on a bus run from Muggio in the Muggio Valley (only in summer). We hope to walk down there soon also (not this time).

A look south down the Muggio Valley. We have been in this valley a couple of times as well. 

It was easy to spot the "Nevèra" between the buildings. This one was open and you could descend into it. These structures are unique to this mountainside. 

This part if the structure is like a well, below ground, and filled in winter with about 6-7 meters of compacted snow and ice. In summer, milk and cheese could be stored here and kept cool as the snow melted over the summer. These "Cooling Houses" were in use until mid-20th-Century. 

Another nevèra, unfortunately not open to look inside. Large maple, oak and linden trees were planted near the structure, to add shade to slow the melting process. 

A touch of colour. 

Heading back to the walking trail after looking at the interesting structures in the mountain hamlet of Nadigh

All the way to Alpe Génor (the stone houses hiding in the lush trees), there was a fence made of these vertically-placed flat stones. We couldn't figure out why anyone would have done this, as the trail was not steep here, and any animals besides cows could easily have jumped the stones. 

Alpe Génor with the massive maple trees

Here were several more of these "Cooling Houses", one of which we could also visit. (This time it was my turn to descend!)

Often when it is hot (like this day was!) I plunge my head in the water fountains. Not this one, though! But I did fill up my water bottle. 

A look behind us at the trail we walked between those small hamlets. There was a 20-minute uphill section here, to get back to the railway tracks.

The south flank of Monte Generoso, looking East into the Muggio Valley

Back on the main trail now. To the right is the trail up to the summit of Monte Generoso, which we did not take. From here it is 35 minutes downhill to BellaVista station. It's now just after noon, and we have plenty of time to catch the 1 p.m. train back down the mountain. 

This is the trail up to the summit. It seems to be a popular hike for a Sunday! All these people would have started out at the Bella Vista station. We passed many more as we headed in the opposite direction!

Some very nice wooded sections now, very welcome on a hot day. 

At one point we had to cross the railway tracks. 

We got to Bellavista at 12:44, and there were many picnic tables here (also a restaurant, but we didn't go in), so we had 15 minutes to enjoy our sandwiches. 

The 1 p.m. train coming down from Monte Generoso summit. 

The trains cross here at Bellavista station, and the train driver has to get out to switch the tracks manually!  We caught the train here at Bellavista and rode it for 15 minutes back down to San Nicolao station. 

Our hike on Google Satellite Maps. Here there is part of Italy NORTH of Switzerland. 

Urs telling the train driver that we need to get out at San Nicolao station. We would have an hour to get back to the train station. The walk to the San Nicolao chapel was only 15 minutes. 

A 15-minute walk through the forest and we get to the Eremo Grotto (a Grotto is a specialized restaurant usually built into a mountainside, serving local dishes). They had no room for us as there were groups that had reserved for lunch. We had a look around, at the chapel also built into the steep cliff wall, and a unique wine cellar also built into the cliff wall, with various small tables set in coves. You can reserve to eat in here..... it was all set and ready to go. 

Since we only wanted a quick coffee to go (tiny cups of coffee called Macchiati, those are Urs' favourites), the waiter brought us our own little table set next to the chapel entrance! It was actually quite nice to sit there for about 10 minutes. 

This photo is taken from the restaurant's website. They would not allow me to go down into the garden, because there was a family party going on down there, and they didn't want strangers walking around there. At least now we know what the chapel and grotto restaurant look like from the north side (I could not have gotten this photo anyway, as it was taken from a private property next door). 

We got back to the San Nicolao station in plenty of time for the 2:15 train back down to Capolago.

Our shot walk to the Grotto Eremo and bacck to the San Nicolao station. In all it ended up being three hours of walking anyway, and 8 kilometers in total. 

Another look down into the valley bottom as we head down off the mountain. 

On the other side of the south end of the lake is a town called Riva san Vitale. Believe it or not, we have not yet been there to check out those two fabulous church buildings!

Heading back to Lugano now, a look at Monte Generoso and the "Fiore di Pietra". We knew that the afternoon would be overcast, so this time we were lucky and had the sunshine in the morning! (The trip home was 2-1/2 hours, and we were back home at 4:45 p.m., almost too early for a hiking day!)

We have done many hikes in the area of Mendrisio and the Muggio Valley. 

Location of Monte Generoso in Switzerland