Gastlosen Tour near Jaun in the Fribourg Foothills

Tuesday July 4, 2023 -- After yesterday's successful hike in Rosswald and a quiet night in Brig, we decided not to stay in the region after all, as it looked like the mountain peaks were disappearing in the clouds, and most other hikes at lower elevation would be too hot. We had originally been choosing between the Gruyères Region and Canton Wallis for our two-day trip, and so decided to try the other option as it was only two hours to travel there, and "sort of" on the way home.

This was a decision which should have been planned better. The hike we wanted to do was a popular 4-hour tour around a unique set of craggy peaks called the Gastlosen in the Fribourg Foothills, but to get to the starting point of the hike you have to take a chair lift whose final run back to valley bottom is at 5 p.m. and we needed to be on the 16:48 bus anyway. Having only gotten to the start of the hike at 11:10, this meant we had 5 hours to do a 4-hour tour, which is kind of tight. Also, it was overcast when we got there, and unbelievably cold (you could say we sure got away from the heat) and the chairlift ride cost 20 Fr. per person, much more than we usually pay, and hard to part with when the weather isn't ideal. 

But we decided to continue anyway. After a miserable start with a difficult uphill section on the East side of the Gastlosen range and fog moving in on the craggy peaks, the sun eventually showed up, and we had a good stretch of trail through fabulous flowering meadows, and a very intriguing, although difficult descent once we crossed over to the West side. What we did find to be positive is that we walked counterclockwise: It made the descent difficult, but heading back along 3.5 kilometers of wide road trail would have been agony going the other way. And by the time we got to the West side of the range, the fog had lifted. We had to rush the whole way though, and couldn't really enjoy the hike. As usual we timed it just right and made the bus in time for the 4-hour trip home. 

This wasn't one of my favourite hikes. In retrospect, we should have left this one for a different 2-day trip to Gruyères, giving us more time to really enjoy it.

To get from Brig to Jaun we traveled through the Lötschberg tunnel to Spiez, then returned on a local train to Boltigen, from where we took a bus to the Jaunpass (this was interesting, as we had never been over the Jaun Pass before). It was at this point on the way to the pass, looking North along the Simmen Valley, that I regretted not having done a hike in this valley instead. 

Our first view of the Gastlosen Range on the descent from the Jaun Pass, toward the west. The low clouds on the peaks were a great disappointment, especially as we had to pass at the spot where the arrow is. But we figured if we started here on the east side where there was sunshine, maybe the fog would lift by the time we got to the saddle.

After a harrowing bus ride over the Jaun Pass (the driver, a woman, took all the curves at high speed, and I felt quite ill), we got to the Gastlosen chairlift in Jaun at 10:50. It was cold and overcast and the tickets cost 20 Fr. each, but it was too late now to turn back, so we forged ahead, hoping for sunshine. 

Chairlift ride up to the start of the popular Gastlosen Tour. 

The east/west passage at the highest point of the loop trail is called Wolfs Ort. Starting on the West side and heading south, it takes only 2 hours to the passage. But the clouds were low on this side, so we headed around the east side, which meant 2 hours and 35 minutes to the passage. It is now 11:10, and we got to the passage at 14:10. But we did stop at Chalet Grat for 30 minutes, waiting for the sunshine and debating heading down to the road.

The first stretch to Chalet Grat was through dense forest on a steep wet path full of roots. That's where we had sunshine and it was hot. We walked quickly, made it in 40 minutes. Then the sun disappeared, and we waited there for 30 minutes (very cold!), but went on anyway. Got to Wolfs Ort at 14:15, to the "Chalet du Soldat" at 15:00 after a tricky descent, and back to the cable car station at 16:15. So in effect, our walking time was about 4-1/2 hours! We really rushed this one, but I was surprised at how well we managed the 700 meter ascent. 

After 30 minutes of waiting at Chalet Grat, we decided to continue on, even though there was still low cloud at Wolfs Ort, where we had to cross. At this point it was quite cold. I actually changed from pants to short to pants to shorts twice on this hike!

The rock formations on the mountain were quite impressive though. 

After another 20-minute section through dense forest where it was actually quite humid, we finally emerged into high pastureland and a dispersion of the clouds. My mood has now vastly improved

An unusual red colour in the different geology would probably indicate a different layer of Earth's crust having been pushed up from below at some point 

Even though we had to rush, the geology was very interesting. 

The view to the southeast in the direction of the Walliser Alps. Apparently the view is magnificent, when the clouds aren't sitting on top of the peaks. (The reason why we took our chance with this part of Switzerland, instead of staying in the Walliser Alps). 

View to the north. The flowering meadows were a real pleasure to walk through.

So many pretty meadow flowers! This made me happy. 

The farm below is called "Oberi Bire".

At this point we are actually enjoying the hike. The day turned out better than it originally looked like it would. 

Now the last ascent to the pass

This is supposed to be a victory sign: "Yeah, I made it!". It's now 2:15 p.m. and we haven't even had lunch yet. But there were quite a few people up here, all having a picnic lunch, so we continued on. 

From here it should take another 1 hour and 40 minutes back to the cable car station. But we had to descend carefully and also stopped for a short lunch break. We made it back by 4:15 p.m. 2 hours after getting here. 

A look south along the very steep cliffs as we continue on from Wolfs Ort

We still have to cross this peak!

This view is to the Southwest, across a pasture called "Petit Mont". (This region, by the way, is on the border of German/French-speaking Switzerland. Most of the people we ran into greeted us in French). The smallest hill at the very back in the center is the Moléson, Gruyères' mountain. 

Looking to the north, we see the house called "Chalet du Soldat". The trail takes us past there. The mountains in the back all have double-names, in French and German. The highest peak, for example, is called "Gros Brun" (French) or "Schopfenspitz" (German). Totally unrelated meanings. 

A closer look at Chalet du Soldat (in German it's known as the "Soldatenhaus", i.e. Soldiers' House) 

Here we made a very quick stop for something to eat. It was high time! (14:20)

Continuing on through a very interesting landscape!

I'm so glad we chose to do the tour in this direction! It would have been a shame to ascend here in the fog. 

This whole region, by the way, is called the Fribourg Foothills, and the mountains here are some of the highest in Canton Fribourg. 

This section would have been easier going up than going down

Admiring the view. In the center of the photo is a pass called Euschels Pass, which connects Jaun on this side with Schwarzsee (Black Lake) on the other side, a place we have also visited a couple of times, although we have never crossed the pass. 

The final stretch before the "Chalet du Soldat" was rough with a lot of larger rocks. 

A quick detour to the "Chalet du Soldat". The chalet, whose construction was initiated by the Swiss Army, was inaugurated in 1945 to become a training centre for the troops of the canton of Fribourg. 

The view directly southwest from the Chalet du Soldat. I believe the main peak in the center is called "Vanil Noir"

The peaks of the Gastlosen now seen from their west side! One of the peaks is called "Gross Turm" (Tall Tower)

A lucky shot!

Now for the final stretch: It's now 3 p.m., it's another 1 hour and 10 minutes to the chair lift, and we have to be there at the latest at 4:20 p.m.! That's not a lot of extra time. 

Starting on the final stretch back to the cable-way. It was mostly a wide road like this, for 3 kilometers, mostly downhill with a bit of uphill at the end. I am glad we didn't walk the other way around. 

Another three kilometers to the cable-way (approx. at the center of the photo). At the farm below (called Obersattel) we were fortunate to find a clean operating water trough to fill our water bottles. 

Another look at the beautiful craggy peaks, now on our right as we head back down to the chair lift. 

A lovely section through cool forest, much too short!

Looking behind us.

That mountain has a fun name: "Dent de Ruth" or "Ruth's Tooth". I first discovered this mountain when we were on vacation in Zweisimmen on the opposite side several years ago, and have always loved that name. (Here is a photo of that mountain as seen from its east side --> HERE)

This is the region of Jaun!

Another look at the Euschel Pass to Lake Schwarzsee to the north. Down below is the village of Jaun, and there would be an option to walk down to the valley bottom there. 

Final stretch to the cable-car station, which is right around the corner (the roof is just visible behind the little hut). 

Yay! We completed the "Gastlosen Tour" (or "Tour des Gastlosens") in record time for me!

Heading down to catch the 16:38 bus to Fribourg. The view is definitely better than on the way up!

A little to the west is the village of Jaun / Jogne. Had we planned better, we might have walked there from the base of the chair lift. 

Urs found his ice cream reward in the small farm shop!

What our 4-hour and 11-km hike looks like on Google Satellite Maps. Starting at the summit station of the chair lift, we walked counter-clockwise on the east side of the range first, and returned on the west side. 

From Jaun we had to ride the bus for a whole hour to Fribourg. We passed through Charmey and past the "Lac de Montsalvens" in the direction of Gruyères. This is a good view of the Gastlosen as we head west in the bus!

Looking back up the Jogne Valley past some of the houses on the outskirts of Charmey. 

Lac de Montsalvens. In August of 2017 we walked through the ravines south of here, formed by the Jogne river. ("Jaunschlucht" in German, or "Gorges de Jogne" in French). Those photos are HERE. 

A glimpse of the Chateau de Gruyères as the bus now turns and heads north toward Fribourg. We got home at 8:15 p.m. which was OK, because the next day was a "Day of Rest" for us.

Where the Fribourg Foothills are located in Switzerland.