Walk from Oberalp Pass down to Andermatt via Unteralp

Wednesday June 14, 2023 -- Today we ventured into the mountains again, to the Oberalp Pass right in the center of the horizontal stretch of Alps through Switzerland, near the source of the Rhine River and on the border of the two Cantons Graubünden to the East and Uri to the West.

This was a bit of a risk, as all week the clouds have been in the mountains and we really wanted sunshine for this hike. For most of the three-hour hike we did have sunshine, as we made our way westward down the mountains to the city of Andermatt. (We have passed through Andermatt dozens of times by train and bus, but never really had a chance to look at the town up close)

Once past the Oberalp Lake (trail is on the north side) we crossed to the south side away from the railway line, and descended along mostly narrow trails via a side valley called Unteralp. The entire north flank of Mount Pazolastock was covered in Alpine Rose bushes, but only a few lower down were starting to flower.

We loved this hike and want to return once the Alpine Roses are in full bloom. The only thing that mars this landscape is the huge and ugly luxury resort city being built up here by the billionaire Egyptian Samih Sawiris, who also wants to build resorts on Lake Uri. Gone is the cute village atmosphere, and how annoying it must be to live up here now with the constant noise of construction. (At least until they are done).  

A favourite spot of mine as the train climbs the Schöllene Gorge from Göschenen to Andermatt: "Devil's Bridge" (Teufelsbrücke)

VIDEO:

Schöllenen Gorge and Reuss River in the morning

At Andermatt we change to the Gotthard-Matterhorn train which runs from Zermatt to Chur over the Oberalp Pass. This view is to the West up the Urseren Valley as our train heads up the mountain to the east toward the pass. 

The ugly part of Andermatt, an entire new luxury resort neighbourhood being built. The large parking lots are for the cars in winter because this is a major skiing area. In fact, the American company Vail Resorts has purchased the majority share of the Andermatt-Sedrun Ski Resort. 

Looking into the Unteralp Valley. We are going to be walking down the hill on the left to the river, and up the other side. 

Heading up toward the Oberalp Pass, this view to the South is where we are going to be hiking later on. 

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Traveling along the Oberalp toward the Pass, and a look at where we will be hiking

The final stretch along the Oberalp Lake to the Pass. We are going to be walking back along the trail below. 

Start of our hike at the Oberalp Pass. This is the border of Canton Graubünden (where the train is headed) and Canton Uri, where we are walking back into. 

Another 11 km hike for us, not a difficult one and very enjoyable. In winter we have walked twice down the pass road from Nätschen to Andermatt. We started at 10:50 at the pass, and got down to Andermatt at 14:40

Heading west along Lake Oberalp (Oberalpsee)

Several times we got to observe the train going along this stretch. Here the train has to hook into the cogs for the downhill stretch. 

VIDEO:

Glacier Express train passing us along the way

Past the lake we cross to the south side of the valley. This is a new trail for us. 

Taking photos of the Gotthard-Matterhorn train. 

Down below is the next train heading up to the Oberalp Pass. In July of 2020 we hiked high up below those peaks, starting at the Oberalp Pass as well, and heading in the direction of Andermatt. Those photos are HERE. 

There was quite a bit of water flowing here, and sometimes it's hard to find a good spot to cross!

A few of the Alpine Roses were blooming on the lower side of the trail. But the entire mountain on the upper side was covered in bushes. We hope to come back when the hillside is pink!

A bit of a wet area, so boardwalks are a big help. Right about here, the main trail goes to the right, to the Nätschen train station. We are heading left, on the wider road you can see on the picture. 

We were looking for a bench but there weren't any, so we squished on this rock to have our lunch. In any case, it's a very nice view of the Urseren Valley and Andermatt below, as well as the Oberalp Pass road. 

There's the next train, heading to the Nätschen train station between Andermatt and the Oberalp Pass

Those beautiful mountains are called the Salbitschijen which form the north side of the Göschener Valley (west of Göschenen in the Reuss Valley), and the East side of the Voralp Valley with its glacier Flachensteinfirn. 

Continuing along the way, we didn't go 100 meters and found the bench we had been looking for! It would have been much more comfortable for our lunch break. 

"Take a little Break, One minute, Don't talk, Just look and see the beauty". So that's what we did. Just one minute. 

Rounding the corner, we now can see up the Unteralp Valley. So beautiful. 

Unteralp Valley

On our descent to the river, there were many steps such as these built into the trail, which makes descending much easier. 

You don't often see Yaks in the mountains here, and this Mama was surprised to see us! (Baby is black, and just getting a drink)

A look down at Andermatt from the Unteralp Valley side. 

To the West on the other side of the river is a fabulous waterfall. We walked on that trail below, passing the waterfall. 

This is the Unteralp Reuss River (flows into the Reuss River at Andermatt, which then continues north through the Schöllenen Gorge, and eventually into Lake Lucerne). Lots of mountain grass being harvested here as well. 

Another look up the Unteralp Valley

Another new alpine flower: St.Bruno's Lily (Paradisea liliastrum) or Alpen Paradieslilie

More boardwalks along the trail. 

This was a fantastic meadow. The photos do not do it justice

Now we've crossed the river and are headed up the hill on the opposite side, toward the waterfall. 

Unteralp Reuss River below. 

Crossing at the waterfall

Close-up of the waterfall

VIDEO:

The Waterfall and our last section to Andermat

Just above Andermatt is a small peat bog, home to grass frogs and alpine newts

A look down at the old part of Andermatt as we descend to the chapel on the right. In the center and back are the new construction sites of Mr. Sawiris' huge resort project. 

That one cow watching Urs had a mean look in her eye. 

"Maria Help" Chapel, built in 1740, in the hopes that prayers to Mary would provide protection from avalanches. 

Now we are down in the old part of Andermatt town, walking down the main street where we have passed through a few times on the bus. 

Lovely old wooden Walser-style houses. The bear is the mascot of this town, as the valley is called the Urseren Valley. (Urs = Bear)

Many hotels in this town, with the typical names of: "Zum Schwarzen Bären", "Ochsen", "Adler" and "Sonne".

A look down Main Street from the other direction.

City Hall (Rathaus Urseren)

Hotel Schweizerhof

The bear is a recurring theme

Cute terrace!

Another fantastic house

Having arrived in town at 14:40 it was too tight for the 14:50 train, so we decided to take the next one, and stop for ice cream along the way. But there were only two restaurants open in the old town, and their terraces were already full. So we just had our ice cream at the train station restaurant. (Indoors, because outdoors there were smokers) and caught the 15:40 train home. Home by 17:30!!! (Less than two hours).  

Our hike as it looks on Google Satellite Maps

Back down the Schöllenen Gorge. The train enters a tunnel in the mountain here. 

VIDEO:

Schöllenen Gorge and Reuss River on the way back down.

A look down the Schöllenen Gorge and Reuss River to Göschenen, where we catch another train northwards. 

And this is the vehicle road from Göschenen to Andermatt through the Schöllenen Gorge

All the hikes we have done in the region of the Oberalp Pass and Andermatt. 

Location of Andermatt in Switzerland, right above the Gotthard Base Tunnel (North/South) and right in the middle of the East-West stretch of Swiss Alps.