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June 2, 2023

Hike down Mount Rigi on the Schwyzer Höhenweg

Friday June 2, 2023 -- Another beautiful day not to be wasted, so I decided to do a hike on my own again, heading up to the summit of Mount Rigi on the first possible connection (train up from Arth-Goldau at 8 a.m., arriving at the top at 8:50) where I was able to enjoy the early morning panoramic views and the peacefulness before the next scheduled trains brought all the Asian tourists up the mountain at 10:00 a.m.

As the trains spilled their masses of tourists at the summit, I boarded to descend to the next station down (Rigi Staffel), having planned to walk down the mountain from there, to the train station at Arth Goldau. (Only six people on the train's return journey!!). The trail I followed wasn't the best as far as views are concerned, but it is part of the Regional Trail no.63: Schwyzer Höhenweg (Schwyz High Trail) and a section of trail which I had not walked before (we have walked many trails along this mountain already). 

No one else seemed to be walking downhill this day, although I passed many sweating hikers walking uphill: People seem to feel challenged to summit many of the Swiss mountains on foot, but I'd rather descend 1000m instead of ascending, especially on a hot day! The air was hazy by the time I got near the bottom, so the views to Lake Lauerz and Lake Zug weren't the best, but it was a comfortable enough walk, another 10 kms and 2 hrs 40 minutes. Along the way, I got to watch the cows being led up to higher pastures for the summer, and that is always a treat as well!

A 15-minute train ride from Zug to Arth-Goldau along lake Zug (25 minutes from home). This is Mount Rigi. A cog-wheel train takes you up to the summit which you can see across the lake. 

The Rigi Railway station with the first set of trains ready to climb the mountain, departure time is 7:55, and it is a 45-minute ride to the top. There were about 20 of us in this first run up the mountain

The first views of the mountains as the train makes its way to the summit

Up at Rigi Kulm station is the familiar landmark chapel

From the summit station, all the tourists make their way to the restaurant and the tower, from where you get 360-degree views over most of Switzerland. I've been there so many times, I didn't bother this time. 

Even from below the tower, you get a very nice view to the north across Lake Zug (we live at the far end of that lake). Of course if the air was less hazy, you would see much further. 

Also to the north is the popular plateau called Seebodenalp, and the Küssnacht arm of Lake Luzern (Vierwaldstättersee). 

There were a couple of wooden lounging chairs here above the chapel, and as I hadn't slept well the night before, I decided to rest here for an hour before the flood of tourists came. It was cool and quiet and peaceful, and only a handful of people were up here. The view's not too bad either. 

Below is the walking trail to the next lower station at Rigi Staffel. I have walked this trail many times. In the background is Mount Pilatus, the main mountain of the city of Luzern, which is at its base to the right. 

Waiting for the 10 a.m. train to head down one station to the start of my hike. The white-capped mountains in the background are the Bernese Alps. On a clear day, the views here are incomparable. 

The newer, modern Rigi train arrives from Vitznau with the first load of tourists....

...followed be the older blue train from Arth Goldau

Almost all of these people are Asians from China or Korea. I'm so glad I took the earlier train up! And boy, this isn't even summer holidays yet. 10 a.m. on a Friday morning in June. 

That part of the mountain is called Rigi Rotstock. I am starting my downhill hike from the building on the right, which is called Rigi Staffel. And in the background is Mount Pilatus

Only a handful of people in the train for the ride back down the hill. An hour later and it will be full of those tourists again, who only really spend an hour up here before moving on to their next destination. 

The modern train is also descending to pick up the next set of tourists. This is the train station at Rigi Staffel, where I started my hike at 10:15.

The section of the Schwyzer Höhenweg (no.63) from Rigi Staffel to Arth Goldau, almost 10 km and 2.5 hours, which is about what it took me. It's all downhill, 1120 meters. 


VIDEO:
The blue Rigi Train heading back down to Arth Goldau


The blue Rigi train heading back down to Arth Goldau, as I start out on my walk. 

Down this valley is where the trail leads. In the center is a small gathering of buildings called Rigi Klösterli, including a small pilgrim's chapel. 

A look up at the tower at Rigi Kulm (summit). 


There was forestry work being done along the trail, which actually was blocked to hikers until end of May. Still, they obviously hadn't finished their work, and I had to clamber over heaps of cut branches. 

Near the next station of Rigi Klösterli are a few residences, a hotel, a vacation camp facility, and this little pilgrim chapel called "Maria zum Schnee" (Maria of the Snow), dedicated in 1721

Obviously I had to take a look in the chapel. I was impresed at how ornate this mountain chapel is!

Many details of the inside of the pilgrim chapel "Maria zum Schnee"

Cows and flowers

Stopped here for a self-timed photo and to change into my shorts, because it is now 11 a.m. and getting quite warm!

The 11 a.m. run up the mountain with the next load of tourists!

As I was heading down the trail, I heard an incessant noise of cow bells, which usually means that cows are on the march. After waiting 10 minutes they finally appeared, being led to higher pastures. But they were taking their sweet time with the process!

VIDEO:
It's hard work getting those cows to upper pastures, as they want to stop and taste all the grass along the way!

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Now they're wondering what I am doing up here... 

In another pasture I saw these cows sleeping on their sides. This looks so unusual, you don't often see them lying like this!

About 2/3rds down the mountain is a restaurant and former Gasthaus called Dächli. (This abandoned building is not the restaurant). 

Even though a sign read that they are open Friday-Saturday-Sunday, it looks like it might no longer be operational. There was a fridge with self-serve refreshments. The wooden carving is interesting!

A look up at the building called Dächli as I continue down the mountain. It is believed that this building provided accommodation and meals in the 18th Century to the pilgrims making their way up the mountain to the chapel at Klösterli. Back then, the ascent had to be done on foot, no Rigibahn! 

From Dachli it's just over an hour to the train station in Goldau.

Now I've emerged from the forest into the pasturelands at the foot of the mountain, with a view south to Lake Lauerz and the Mythen mountains. 

A look behind me up the mountain. The small building toward the top is Dächli

A close-up look to the summit of Mount Rigi

To the north is Lake Zug. The town on the south end of Lake Zug is called Arth

A zoomed view of Arth on the south side of Lake Zug

Down at city level now, this is the Catholic church in Goldau

If time permits and churches are open, I always have a look inside


At 1:15 p.m. I made it back to the Rigi-Bahn train station, which is an elevated platform built above and perpendicular to the regular railway. The platform was built in 1897 and as of 2006 it has become an industrial monument of national importance. 

The elevated platform was built in 1897 and was an engineering marvel of its time. Since then, and with the development of electric trains and most recently of double-decker trains on the Gotthard line below, the platform had to be raised twice (41cm in 1922 and 70 cm between 2010 and 2017). As of 2006 it had become an industrial monument of national importance, and therefore they could not remove it to make way for the taller trains. 

And now another look at the summit of Mount Rigi as I head back home again at 1:15 p.m. 

What my hike looks like on Google Satellite Maps

All the hikes we have done around Mount Rigi and Mount Zug



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