The Agricultural Landscape of Cantons Zurich and Thurgau between Thur and Rhine Rivers

Sunday April 9, 2023 -- Easter Sunday, had the best forecast of all four holiday days and we were looking forward to a lot of sunshine. As the snow is still low on the mountains, and we wanted to avoid popular places, we went North into the Zurich Wine Country near Frauenfeld and the Thur River (unfortunately no leaves on the vines yet) for a walk through the agricultural landscape. (Our main purpose was to visit i.e. walk along three lakes in the area).

What we didn't expect was the extremely icy wind blowing, which was very uncomfortable when the clouds covered the sun, which happened more than we anticipated. Furthermore, most of the 12+ kilometers was along paved roads, long and straight sections, which I have difficulties with. And there weren't even any blossoms in the fruit trees to distract from the boring sections.

A short wet marshy section along the lakes was interesting, as was a detour to a fortress ruins, but the best part was in the town of Stammheim where we started on our walk. Most of the houses are of half-timbered construction of various colours, and it was a pleasure to walk along the vineyards above the village looking down at the roofs. Furthermore we discovered another chapel with fabulous 14th-Century frescoes, only uncovered as recently as 1896. 

Our hike was planned to end at the Ittingen Charterhouse, but as we'd been there twice before, we ended slightly before that at a convenient bus stop. It was too cold to miss a connection and have to wait around more. (It was almost to the day in 2018 that we did the more interesting Thurgau Vineyard Trail to the Charterhouse, those photos are HERE).

As is often the case, we started in Canton Zurich, and ended in Canton Thurgau, crossing the border right at the lakes. 

Considering this was really one of my least favourite walks, the photos turned out very nice!

On the bus ride from Frauenfeld to the start of our hike in Stammheim, we passed by the lakes we had come to see. I fact, on this photo out of the bus window I captured the fortress ruins which we stopped at later. 

Arriving in the village of Stammheim on the bus, we also got a look at the Gallus Chapel which we visited before heading to the lakes. 

Main street in Stammheim. We got out at the far west end of the village. 

Very nice half-timbered houses in this part of the country 

Here is where we got off the bus. First house we saw was quite a magnificent one!

Details of a very nice half-timbered home. You don't often see this ochre color for the timbers (usually dark brown or red). 

So nice that the trees are finally blossoming. The pink is especially pretty

Heading uphill to the top of the village (first stop is the local evangelical church)

Here is a different kind of daffodil, not simply all yellow. Very pretty!

The Evangelical church in Unterstammheim. The tower and the chancel of the church date from 1517

Inside the evangelical church they had a very pretty display of the Easter Story, starting from the Last Supper, to the Resurrection. We have never seen this done for Easter before. Better known are the Christmas Nativity displays. 

Heading off on our hike now, a look back at the lovely church up above the village. 

At the start of our hike, the temperature was pleasant, as the cold winds hadn't started yet. 

This hike turned out to be almost 13 km. Main reason for coming here was to see the lakes. We could have ended the hike in Warth at the Charterhouse, but I had been there twice before. Most of the walk was on level ground, and unfortunately too much on paved roads. 

A look past the vineyards over the roofs of Stammheim village

Always those cats that love to come and greet Urs!

A closer look at the village roofs

At the far east side of the village is the Gallus Chapel

The inside of the chapel was very plain but with some extremely extensive fresco paintings on the walls. The steps to the balcony were not out of bounds, so I was able to get a nice look at the chapel from above.  

More details of the lovel Gallus Chapel. Information on the walls claims that the chapel was founded by the diocese of St.Gallen in the 9th Century, but the original gothic structure was built in the 1200's (many changes since then). The drawings are from 1320 and were covered up over the years, and uncovered in 1896

Heading back down from the vineyards through the town to continue on to the lakes. 

Discovery of another farm shop with lots of organic products from the area. Urs bought some ice cream, as is his tradition (when available)!

This car with rare license plate TG-24 drove by. Such plates are listed at auction from about $50,000 and up, so I guess the owner of this fancy Porsche can afford such a plate! (A used version of this car costs $150K!)

Everything about this place is pretty!

Town fountain, not the usual circular kind!

As we head away from Stammheim, here is a look behind us at the Gallus Chapel and the vineyards above the village. 

This area also has a lot of castles. This one is called Schloss Schwandegg

Much of the rest of our walk was in a flat agricultural landscape. Usually smaller roads, but paved or dirt roads. 

No blossoms on these trees yet, but soon.... It looks like (probably) apple trees.

Finally approaching the first lake along the way, it is called Nussbommersee (comes from the word Nussbaumen, the small village directly to the north of the lake and to the east of Stammheim)

Till this point we were walking in Canton Zurich, and right here we crossed the Canton border into Canton Thurgau (the borders are very strange in Northern Switzerland. Here there are parts of Canton Zurich to the North of Canton Thurgau)

Some funny grey geese in the meadows!

Some parts along the lake were along marshes, but we didn't see much of the lakes.  

The ruins of the fortress Helfenberg. We made a detour here. 

Details of the ruins of Helfenberg. The fortress is first mentioned in St.Gallen documents of the 14th Century, but it appears to only minimally have been used as a residence. 

A very nice tree and some view on the lake. In summer, when the trees have leaves, you probably don't see much of these lakes. This is actually the second lake, called Hüttwiilersee. 

The third lake: "Hasesee", just south of the fortress ruins. 

A look back at the ruins as we head onwards. When the sun was "gone" as on this photo, the cold wind was almost unbearable. 

The grey herons are also always fun to watch. They observe you closely, and if you stand still too long, that's when they fly away. 

One short interesting passage through a marshy area. 

The trail was very wet here, so the "stepping-stumps" were helpful! This is along a canal between two of the lakes. 

I always love bridges

Continuing along the flat paths past forests, farms and orchards. 

Here we took a break on the tiniest of benches. This is an orchard where they are growing some very old varieties of apples. Each tree had a label with the type of apple it was. 

Several farms like this one. 

Another fantastic tree. I can only imagine how it looks in full bloom. 

Another typical farm house here. 

Attractive spring decorations. 

Waiting for the bus at the Berlingerhof farm, for the ride back to Frauenfeld. 

In 2018 we did the Thurgau Vineyard Trail (peach colour) all the way to the Ittigen Charterhouse (photos HERE). In 2016 I walked with a friend from the Charterhouse back to Frauenfeld, so we didn't do that section this time. And just to the north in pink is Stein am Rhein, i.e. the Rhine River. 

Waiting for the train in Frauenfeld, we saw many storks flying overhead. This is always such a spectacular sight. 

Location of the Frauenfeld region in northern Switzerland.