Medieval Fortress Ruins in Haldenstein near Chur, in the Rhine Valley

Wednesday Januar 25, 2023 -- We needed a bit of sunshine again, so we went to Chur which is a large city in the Rhein Valley, and the gateway to many of the popular side valleys of Canton Graubünden (Lenzerheide, Arosa, Rhine Canyon, Albula etc.). Strangely enough, even though we currently have snow in the flatlands in the North, the Rhine Valley there was snow-free for quite a long way up the mountains, especially the Calanda Massif. 

Whenever we travel in that direction we notice lots of fortress ruins along the way, so this seemed like a good day to hike up to three of these ruins. All three are near a village on the west side of the Rhine called Haldenstein, which we discovered also has a really nice castle with rose gardens, which we will return to visit once the garden is open to visitors in April.

After climbing the hillside to see the three ruins (one of which was simply a stone wall built across a cave in the cliff face and not really worth the extra 100m to climb up to), the logical thing would have been to return to Haldenstein (more sun...) but we don't like going back the same way, so we chose a longer route to the north, passing the elegant Calanda wind power plant, and hoping to reach the next train station by following the trail on the west side of the Rhine River. We knew part of the trail was closed, but the map claimed there was an alternate way, which turned out to be possibly a 2-hour detour up the hill! So we had to return the way we had come (there were no other bridges to cross the river) and ended our hike back in Haldenstein where we had started. In all it was four hours of walking, about half of it in the shade of the mountain, and even with the sunshine, there was a very icy wind blowing! But we got fresh air and exercise...

We started near the train station in Haldenstein, on the east side of the river, and started by crossing the Rhine River here.

From the height of the Rhine River, we got a good look at two of the three ruins we were going to hike to. This one is called Burgruine Liechtenstein, about 220m above the river. (It is believed to be older than the 12th Century).

Entering the village of Haldenstein directly toward Schloss Haldenstein (Haldenstein Castle) and above it on the hillside: The Burgruine Haldenstein. 

A close-up view of the two fortress ruins Haldenstein on the left, and Liechtenstein on the right. 

The trail leads right through one of the castle towers. 

A peek into the castle gardens, which open to the public in April 

Walking into the castle aereal

Some details of the Haldenstein Castle. It looks like at least part of it were built in 1546!

Village church

The inside of the village church was beautiful, so tasteful with the wood finishings, and the huge organ was fabulous. This would be a reformed or protestant church. There are not a lot of Catholic churches in Canton Graubünden. 

Heading out of the church grounds to walk around the village a bit. 

North of the village is the cliff where the Liechtenstein Fortress perches. 

First we will head out to the Haldenstein ruins, then a detour to Grottenstein, and then to the final ruins called Lichtenstein (where we had our lunch)

We prefer not to take the same trail back, so after the third ruins (Liechtenstein), we followed a road down the shady side of the mountain and headed north past the wind energy plant. 

Heading up the hill, this is a view to the other (east) side of the Rhine River. 

We bought some pastries in the village bakery and sat here in the sunshine eating them, with a view past the roofs of Haldenstein to the city of Chur

The road led to above the Haldenstein ruins, then we descended to its base, before returning to the main trail to go to the second set of ruins. 

This is an unusual triangular construction! Also, the tower was built on a rocky outcropping. We couldn't figure out if there was a way in. The fortress was built in the 12th Century and apparently half of it fell off in 1769 due to an earthquake.

Back on the main trail, we get a view up to the ruins of the Liechtenstein fortress (perched on the cliffs 220m above the Rhine River), but we are heading up to the left to see Grottenstein first. 

Next stop: Grottenstein ruins. This required a detour of about 45 minutes from the main trail

It turns out that the Grottenstein Fortress was built into a cave in the cliff walls. 

Standing on what remains of the wall (22 meters) of this fortress. 

What remains of the fortress is this 22-meter long wall built at the opening of the cave. This fortress was first mentioned in documents of 1672, and was most likely used as a refuge in times of war. 

Next stop is the Liechtenstein Fortress... First mention of the name of the powerful von Lichtenstein family was discovered to be 1180, and it is assumed that this, one of their residences, was already in existence by then.  

A very steep path up the hill leads to the ruins. 

Looking out through one of the windows in the ruins, down to the Rhine River

And a look over the town of Haldenstein to the city of Chur. 

A close-up look into the castle grounds of the Haldenstein Castle.. 

Here's where we had our picnic lunch (12:30) at the ruins of Fortress Liechtenstein. 

From here we also got a look across the mountainside to the ruins of Haldenstein

Back down off the little hill

Way across the valley on the other side of the Rhine, we spied this interesting little house in a large field, surrounded by a stone wall. Very private!!!

We spent the next 40 minutes on the north side of the hill in the shadow of the mountain, making our way back down to river level. 

We might have been in the shadow of the mountain here, but there was little wind (more when we got to the bottom) and the view was pretty impressive, especially the elegant Calandawind Turbine. 

Heading north now along the west side of the Rhine River, hoping to find a passage to the next bridge at Untervaz. There was a very cold wind blowing here, obviously a good place for a wind turbine!

An interesting passage along the cliff next to the river. 

We got to the closed path at 2:15 p.m., only to discover that the "alternate trail" was on the east side of the river, with no bridge to cross! The sign does indicate an uphill trail to Untervaz from here and we started the climb, but not knowing how long this would take, we decided to turn back.

Later, looking at our map, there is no uphill trail marked on the map, although there is an obvious, well-trampled trail with steps leading from the closure point. Later we figured the trail must go to that road, a 45-minute climb for sure, and then still a long way back down the road. 

Heading back south again along the mountain trail toward the wind energy plant and on from there back to Haldenstein. 

Afternoon winter sunshine on the mountains on the east side of the Rhine River.

Final stretch along the river to the bridge at Haldenstein... the train station is on the other side at the bridge. 

A final look at the Liechtenstein Ruins as we pass below the cliff on which it is perched. 

Lovely afternoon sunshine on the village of Haldenstein and the Haldenstein Ruins. 

A final close-up look at the Haldenstein Fortress ruins

We started shortly after 10 a.m. and returned to the train station at 3:30 p.m. Total walking time was about four hours. 

This shot is from the webcam across the valley in the city of Chur, right about the time we were having lunch at the Liechtenstein Fortress (Area of the three fortresses in that circle). There is almost no snow on the Calanda massif. 

Location of the Rhine Valley at Chur, in relation to where we live.