An Easy Hike through the Schin Gorge from Vaz/Obervaz to Thusis in Canton Grisons

(This blog entry posted on Nov.30, 2022)

Wednesday September 21, 2022 -- The popular stretch of the Rhaetian Railway from Thusis to Filisur (part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site Rhaetian Railway Albula/Bernina) passes through a spectacular gorge (Schynschlucht) before the valley opens up at Tiefencastel. We have ridden on this stretch countless times, and were always fascinated by the fact that there was a hiking trail through this gorge high above the railway line.

This trail is actually part of the Regional Trail no.33 "Via Albula/Bernina", of which we have done several sections already, and hope to have completely walked in the future. This sunny day was the perfect opportunity to do this hike through the Schyn Gorge, because it was a panoramic but not strenuous hike which is what we wanted at this point. To add a bit of variety to the excursion, we started in the village of Obervaz (passing through Lenzerheide by bus to get there) to admire some more of those fantastically painted Grisons houses and to get some nice views before heading into the forested gorge. 

The highlight of the day was when we came across a fellow building a huge and old-fashioned community oven like they had in generations past. The oven is fairly new, but a neighbour lady told us she had already brought 70 loaves of bread to bake there!

The 14-km and 4-hour hike ended at the train station in Thusis, after we had looked at and inspected both a privately-owned castle and the quaint Cassian Chapel, both landmarks we have often admired on our train rides through the gorge. 

(Side note: The Domleschg Region, the open valley around Thusis and from where both the Schin Gorge and the Via Mala Gorge are accessed, is replete with castles, fortress ruins and chapels, as this used to be an important trade route. We walked the "Domleschg Fortress Trail" in January 2020, those photos are HERE)

On the train on the way to Chur and Lenzerheide, this is one of my favourite stretches along Lake Walensee.

In Chur, we changed to a bus... this is a view over the old town of Chur, once a powerful seat of European Bishops. 

Passing the lake in Lenzerheide: "Igl Lai" (in Romansch language) or Heidsee. From Lenzerheide we took another bus to the villages of Vaz/Obervaz

We started our hike here in the village called Lain, part of the community of Vaz/Obervaz

Every visit to a village starts with a look at the village church. This one was built in 1681, although there was a church on this spot earlier than this. 

The wonderfully pained façade of the St.Luzius church in Lain already promised an art experience! The church was renovated in 1962 and is a Swiss Heritage Site of national importance.

The artwork inside this little church was simply stunning. This is Baroque Style. 

Various sections of the ceiling display artwork from a variety of unknown artists. 

More ceiling artwork

More details of the interior of the St.Luzius Church in Lain

Starting in the village of Lain, we walked to Muldain where there was an equally fabulous chapel, then we descended into the upper part of the gorge, and walked out to the city of Thusis. A relatively easy 4-hour and 14-km walk. 

This fabulous house stands at the very south end of the village. It is called the Deflorin House and was built in 1652, according to the inscription above the door

South side of the Deflorin House

Details of this lovely painted Grisons House

Following the road now down to Muldain, which is the second of three villages that form part of Vaz/Overvaz

Urs buying locally-made sausages at the farmers's shop

Slightly lower and to the east is the third of the three villages that form this community: Zorton. We didn't have a chance to detour that way. Apparently the lower part of the tower dates from 1218!

Next attraction: The little chruch of St. Johannes Baptista in Muldain. This is also a monument of national significance, and was also a work of art. The date on the bell tower on this one is 1676

Particularly attractive was the painted wood ceiling of the veranda or porch on the front side of the church. 

This is also a Baroque Church, and it was restored in 1990

Also here were loads of interesting details, including fresco paintings a a wooden choir bench which I could have sworn was marble. 

A view into the lovely Albula region of Canton Graubünden (Grisons)

Another attractive building

We are now heading into the Schin (or Schyn) Gorge along Trail no.33: Via Albula/Bernina to the city of Thusis

More lovely old buildings

Here is the fellow who is building a community oven! That lady has already successfully baked two batches of 35 loaves in this oven...

A look behind us at Muldain, as we now head into the Schyn Gorge

One more look eastward up the valley toward the community of Tiefencastel. This is a stretch of the "Via Albula/Bernina" trail which we also still have to walk. 

Now we can look down the Schynschlucht (Schyn Gorge) toward Thusis at the end. Where the gorge opens up is called the Domleschg. Down below on the left is the railway and roadway, and higher up on the right you can see the dirt road which is actually our trail. Also, the Albula River flows down this gorge. 

A zoomed view of the Bernina Express train entering a tunnel on the way to Tiefencastel

VIDEO:

Bernina Express Train from the Rhaetian Railway making a course between Thusis and Filisur and on to the Bernina Region

A look behind us at the trail we are walking... we came down from the top of that cliff

Some interesting sections along cliff walls (there was also a blasted tunnel). This looks like it might have been the old road through the gorge, before they built the modern one further below.

A look far down at the new roadway through the Schyngorge

In September we saw many fly amanitas in our walks through the forest. 

After reaching the power plant at the opening of the gorge, we detoured to the Baldenstein Castle (privately owned) and the St. Cassian Chapel before descending through the village of Sils and finally to the train station in Thusis

Baldenstein Castle, privately-owned. 

Then we detoured via St.Cassian Chapel, a chapel we always see from the train on our way from Thusis through the Schyn Gorge. Unfortunately, we could not access the inside. 

A view toward Thusis and the mountain called Piz Beverin. This whole valley here is called the Domleschg, and it is full of old chapels, castles and fortress ruins. 

The Baldenstein Family must have been an influencial family in this region. I guess the nearby castle must still belong to members of this family. 

Another look back at St.Cassian Chapel as we continue on our way to Thusis

Ahead of us the village of "Sils im Domleschg".

Sils i.D. (Sils im Domleschg) is the name of this village. Behind it and across the river (Posterior Rhine River) is the city of Thusis

VIDEO:

Before reaching the village of Sils, we passed a tiny vineyard, and were surprised by an unusual contraption of flags on wires being pulled back and forth every few minutes, obviously to keep away the birds. What a lot of work for a few vines!

A quick peek into the church in Sils.... this time the artwork was this very beautiful painted organ. 

Crossing the Posterior Rhine River for the last stretch through the industrial part of Thusis to the train station (nothing special to see there, we didn't have time for the old part of town). 

What our 14-km hike looks like on Google Satellite Maps. It was a very easy 4-hour hike. 

Heading back out of the Domleschg Region toward Chur... The valley is full of castles and ruins and chapels. We did a hike to all of these castles back in January 2020, those photos are HERE

Somewhere in the Rhine Valley between Chur and Sargans

These are the sections of the Via Albula/Bernina trail which we have done north of the Engadine Valley. Between there and the Italian Border (over the Bernina Pass) we had also walked a few sections. 

Location of the Domleschg Region in Canton Grisons/Graubünden