The Rare Adonis Vernalis Flower in the Turtmann Valley

Wednesday April 27, 2022 -- On this day, we ended up doing TWO hikes! (in Canton Valais again, where the weather is simply warmer at this time of year).

We had heard of a rare flower called the Adonis Vernalis (Yellow Pheasant's Eye) which grows only in two very small regions of Switzerland in the wild, and which flowers in March to May. A friend had recently been there and told us they were in full bloom, so even though the trip (again) to Canton Valais takes three hours each way, we figured we should go now, or it might be too late.

The two places where you can find the flower are in Saxon (too far for a day trip) or Turtmann, at the entrance of the Turtmann Valley, easy for us to access. For the latter, there is a three-hour themed trail hike which takes you from one meadow on the West side of the valley entrance, into the valley, and back out via the second meadow on the East side. As we have been in this valley many times, we decided it would be sufficient to visit one meadow. It was a one-hour loop and we were really thrilled with the lovely bunches of bright-yellow flowers growing in bushes with dill-type greenery.

On our return to the village of Turtmann, we did the extra loop to the waterfall where the Turtmänna River drops from the valley above, before heading out to Visp (one hour by public transit) where we did the second hike of the day, along the Visperi Irrigation Channel between Visp and Brig... (Those photos to follow).

Interesting note about the Adonis Vernalis: It is a very poisonous plant, containing cardio-stimulant compounds, with a history of use in European and Chinese Folk medicine, especially in Russia where the demand is great. Overharvesting has caused it to become endangered in the wild, and many European countries have made it illegal to pick these flowers, or have put limits on the amounts that can be harvested.

First off: Here are some photos from the train trip down to Canton Valais, via Bern and Kandersteg, and the Lötschberg Basis Tunnel, which exits just short of the city of Visp.

Mt. Niesen near the city of Spiez

Blümlisalp above Kandersteg

Having changed trains in Visp, we head West along the Rhone Valley. On the left is the gorge which is the entrance to the Turtmann Valley. You can just see the chapel on the right on the hillside where the flowers are

First we have to walk 15 minutes from the train station into the village of Turtmann. Ahead of us we see the Chästlera Chapel and the hillside where the Adonis flowers grow

Village church in Turtmann

City Hall building in Turtmann

A lovely house which is actually more in the style of Canton Graubünden.

Our trail takes us up the hill past the small building. This was built in 1708 as a sort of "club house" for marksmen. It is under Cantonal Heritage Protection.

The Loop Trail which passes through the fields of flowers is marked "Adonispfad" = Adonis Trail

The path we walked on the search for the Adonis flower. After the loop trail, we then walked to the back of the gorge to look at the waterfall, and then we returned to the cable car station to catch the bus to Leuk and Visp for our second excursion

As we hoped, we found the hillside below the chapel to be full of the bunches of Adonis flowers.

A particularly nice bush of Adonis Vernalis. The flower is protected in Switzerland since 1944.

A most beautiful luminous yellow!

Getting up close to the rare flower. Because they grow in bunches like this, it is easy to walk through the meadow without stepping on them.

The flower is protected here since 1944. It is forbidden to pick, dig up or otherwise damage the plants. As beautiful as the flower is, it is very poisonous! (Which actually helps it keep safe from goats which might otherwise graze on the hillsides).

Looking back up the Rhone Valley. Just 10 days earlier, we hiked on the hillside on the opposite side of the valley (above Urs' head on this photo).

Little bunches of Adonis Vernalis

A nice self-timed photo, but from now on I know to watch out where Urs' shadow is!

A look down the Rhone Valley. Just ahead is the Pfyn-Finges Nature Reserve, which includes the largest contiguous pine forests in the Alps. We spent Aug.1st here last year.

Heading away from the chapel to continue along the Adonis Loop Trail.

These Val Hérens cows (Ehringer) are native to Canton Valais. They are firm and stocky, bred for meat and not for milk.

Heading back down to Turtmann

The other meadow is on the hill upper left, and one can do a 3-hour hike from one meadow to the other, passing through the valley above the waterfall. We're heading to the waterfall.