Overnight on a Mountain Alp, then over the Surenen Pass to Engelberg

(This is where we were the day the mountain came down in the Bregaglia Valley in southeast Switzerland)

August 22 and 23, 2017 --  This is very awesome. We live so close to the Alps that we can both work a full day and head out to the mountains after work, take a cable car 1000 altitude meters up, hike another 250m up (1 hour) before sunset to a secluded mountain alp and join the farmers there (and any other hikers who had the same idea) for a wonderful alp-style macaroni & cheese casserole dinner made with the farm's own cheese, before heading off to the dormitories above the cow barn, amid the scent of fresh-cut grass and sounds of cows being milked at 5:30 a.m.... for the sole purpose of being able to cut off one hour of a 6-hour hike over a mountain pass, which was the plan for Wednesday morning.

We started early after a farmer's breakfast with all products made on site (butter, cheese, jams -- even pine-needle jam, it was surprisingly tasty) while Mrs. Bernadette made the day's worth of cheese in her kitchen. The early morning lighting was beautiful, although we should have left even earlier than we did. We hiked the two hours to the pass under a striking blue and cloudless sky, and as Mr.Max the farmer had pointed out to us where we might see some ibex, we kept an eye on that part of the cliffs and were rewarded with sightings of a whole herd of them (females and young) playing and lounging on the rocky slopes. 

The views on both sides of the pass were stunning as usual, but the wind was biting cold here at 2300m, so we didn't stay long. A gradual descent across the empty alpine bowl (the snow lies 4m deep here in winter) with the mighty Mount Titlis always in our sights, led us eventually to lower pasture areas, streams, waterfalls, several little mountain restaurants, and another short but steep cable car ride to the Engelberg Valley bottom. 

Altogether this hike was almost 18 km, with over 900m ascent, and I am quite proud that I managed this (even the second day, which took us over 6 hours) without being too exhausted!

*** Interesting side note: In the early 19th century the ibex was almost hunted to extinction, and there were only 100 animals left in the entire alpine area, and those belonged to an Italian Prince who refused to sell them, so the Swiss smuggled some of them out of his herd into Switzerland where the repopulation was successful.

**Warning: There are lots of photos, because it was such a great hike!

Ascending with the cable car in the evening from Attinghausen to Brüsti. This view is into the Schächen Valley

 

On the one-hour walk to the alpine farmstead, we walked over a ridge with views into both valleys.

Walking along the ridge to the farmstead at Alp Grat (250 alt. meters, 2 km, took us an hour)

 

Walking along the ridge to the alpine farmstead at Alp Grat

Up ahead is the place we are spending the night (Alp Grat). It is common up here that the fog moves in at night.

The one-hour walk to the farm at Alp Grat was quite enjoyable. Behind and below me, the Reuss Valley.

Checking out our accommodations for the night. Below and at the back are the stalls for Max and Bernadette's 18 cows (milking time is 5:30 a.m.!) and above are dormitories for 24 people. Below at the front a large cozy dining area.

Since there were only four of us spending the night, we all had supper in the farmhouse kitchen. Macaroni and Cheese Alpine Style (also includes potatoes) using home-made cheese.

The alpine farmers in Canton Uri have a tradition: After sunset, they call out thanks to the Saints (a Catholic Tradition) for the bounty they have been blessed with.

Early morning light before breakfast. The fog has lifted as promised by Max

   

Breakfast in the farmhouse: Homemade butter, cheese and jams. And my new kitten.

The first two kms of the 18-km hike we did the night before, it took us an hour. Early the next morning we started on the 2-hour hike to the Surenen Pass, and then another 3-4 hours to the bus stop at the Fürenalp cable car station.

 

Looking down on the Alp where we spent a very interesting evening listening to stories of alpine farm life, and a night in the barn amid the smell of fresh hay stored there.

A view into the Gitschi Valley and Lake Uri (that was a hike we did last year about this time. We descended into the Gistchi Valley behind the little hut below).

 

Headed to the Surenen Pass, that is a climb of just over two hours and about 700 altitude meters from the farmhouse.

 

On the way to the Surenen Pass

On the way to the Surenen Pass. We came up along that ridge. Far behind me to the East is the Schächen Valley. 

Getting closer to the Surenen Pass

Max had told us where to look for ibex. So with patient scouring of the rocky flanks with our bare eyes, and then some zoomed photos with my camera, we were thrilled to see an ibex way up on the green patch below the crags.

And the marmots were scolding us, very loudly!

At these altitudes you can run into snow late into August. 

 

At these altitudes you can run into snow late into August. The area is aptly named "Langschnee" (long snow). Later, as we got closer to the pass, we just by chance caught movement on the upper piece of snow, turned out to be more ibex.

Two young ibex were practicing butting heads on this patch of snow. We were attracted by a dark movement on the white background.

 

As the ibex left the snow patch, they joined six more (larger) ibex on the gravel. Looks like females and young.

The sparring is not quite finished yet!

 

It's hard to see, but we counted 8 sets of horns on this photo.

 

Enjoying the wonderful alpine afternoon, just as we are.

On the way to the Surenen Pass. There are probably more ibex high up on those crags.

Finally reached the maximum altitude (2290m). This view is to the East.

Finally reached the maximum altitude (2290m). This view is to the West. There was a very cold wind blowing, so we didn't stay long.

This is Mount Titlis (Engelberg's "house" mountain), seen from a less-familiar angle. There is snow and skiing on its summit year-round.

   

Heading toward Blackenalp, one of many mountain restaurants on this stretch toward Engelberg.

Blackenalp, one of many mountain restaurants on this stretch toward Engelberg.

 

Ooooo that feels good!

 

Continuing on toward the Engelberg Valley. Our rest stop is ahead on that pale green hill.

At this bottle-neck I was a little worried about all the hooves pointing in my direction!

 

A well-earned rest and something to drink at the Hohbiel "restaurant" (they don't really cook food, just serve drinks, cheese, sausage, bread etc.)

A well-earned rest and something to drink at the Hohbiel "restaurant" (they don't really cook food, just serve drinks, cheese, sausage, bread etc.)

Oh, and sometimes you can even order dessert.

A very old, large and slow-moving war plane flew quite close to the crags.

From here (Usser Aebnet to Stäfeli) we took another cable car into the valley, a very small car over a steep cliff. Saved us about 300m descent.

The lady who runs the cable car gets to enjoy the peace and views while knitting and waiting for someone to phone up from the cable car station.

More cheese to purchase at the cable car station. This one is called Surenen Cheese, because this is the Surenen Valley.

Very steep cable car ride, saves us 300m altitude descent.

 

From here we have another 1hour and 15mins. to walk 4.5 km along the Engelberger Aa River.

 

Ahead of us is the popular town of Engelberg. To walk there would take another two hours, so we are getting on the bus at the base station of the Fürenalp Cable Car.

 

Almost there. 16 km on this day, with a large ascent and descent, took us about 6 hours.

 

One last look back into the Surenen Valley, which we came out of from the left.

These are the hikes we have done in this area in the last four years.