20 Degrees in Switzerland, the Day After Christmas

December 26, 2016 -- As my favourite niece recently so poetically stated: "Southern Switzerland Rocks".... Forget the Canary Islands, our Swiss Riviera has just had the warmest Christmas ever, in some places as warm as 20 degrees!

The phenomenon is due to the North Föhn winds, which bring warm weather South of the Alps, but also a cold North wind, which is what we had prepared ourselves for when we traveled there again the day after Christmas... But shortly after starting on our hike it was clear there was no cold wind blowing, and it didn't take long to lose the jackets and pants. I hiked in a skirt all day until we got back on the train at 3:30 pm, because the valley bottoms are still in deep shadow for most of the day here.

We do many hikes in this area in winter, not only because of the mild weather, but because we see treasures that we might miss in summer, when the dense forests are full of leaves. (Also now with the super tunnel, we are there 30 minutes faster...)

Our hike started in the always impressive Onsernone Valley, but we shortly emerged on the South Flank of the mountain above the communities of Terre di Pedemonte, cleverly having mapped out a hike that provided us with as much sunshine as possible at an altitude high enough above the valley still deep in shadow.

At the start of our hike above the Melezza River, a tributary to the Maggia River which flows into Lago Maggiore

The start of our hike above Intragna at the entrance to Valleys Onsernone and Centovalli. Intragna is in the shadow of the mountain almost all day at this time of year, while at this altitude we have sunshine all day.

Hiking Trails in the Ticino are often "paved" with stones or laid out like staircases. As we walked, sun-loving lizards scooted out of our path left and right, and we were even lucky to have two Chamois (Gemse) cross our path.

Two Chamois crashed through the woods and crossed our path, you don't get to see this often.

Some fun narrow sections with low tunnels.

We were pleasantly surprised when the trail turned a corner and continued as a very narrow path at the base of a steep cliff, with tunnels blasted through the rock to provide access for hikers. I've not yet walked a trail where we had to go on our knees to get through a tunnel! This added a bit of excitement to what we thought would be a fairly non-eventful hike.

Some sections of this trail were along steep cliff walls.


For the first half of the hike Eastward we had great views into the valley: the Melezza River joining the Maggia River below Monte Cardada-Cimetta; Locarno on Lago Maggiore, and Monte Tamara and Monte Gambarogno (where we were last week) in the back.

Enough sun today to warrant sunscreen... and what great views into the valley.

Nice spot for lunch before heading North into Valle da Riei.

Here and there along the way are cute little homes tucked into the forest setting.



At the back of the Valley is a rise, from which you can see into the neighbouring Valle Maggia. In summer, when there are lots of leaves on the trees, you don't see as much.

Descending to the little hamlet called Streccia.

At the back of the little valley of the River Riei there is a hamlet of quaint Ticinese Rustico buildings, a real little peaceful haven. We totally never expected to find this little village tucked away back here. 

The little hamlet called Streccia.

Heading back South along the river (or stream) called Riei, we were also pleasantly surprised at how well-laid the trail was, with lovely stone walls and Rustico houses dotting the trail. The late winter afternoon sunshine provides real special lighting here.

Walking out of the Valley of the River Riei.

Walking out of the Valley of the River Riei.

Walking out of the Valley of the River Riei.

Walking out of the Valley of the River Riei.

Back out of the Riei Valley we head East again along the Southern Flank of Monte Zucchero

Back along the Southern Flank of Monte Zucchero (Sugar Mountain) we are doing a detour to view another hillside Church called Oratoria Sant'Anna before heading down into the shady valley to catch our train in Verscio.

Oratorio Sant'Anna on the flank of Monte Zucchero, this is a great look-out point.

Great views from here across Lago Maggiore to Monte Gambarogno where we were a week before.

Enjoying late DECEMBER 26th (!) afternoon sunshine at Oratorio Sant'Anna

Enjoying late DECEMBER 26th (!) afternoon sunshine at Oratorio Sant'Anna

Enjoying late DECEMBER 26th (!) afternoon sunshine at Oratorio Sant'Anna

Heading down some more wonderfully-laid trails to Verscio, to catch our train back home.

Heading down some more wonderfully-laid trails to Verscio, to catch our train back home.

This is the entrance to the Riei Valley where we just spent the afternoon. Walking up this way is a plan for springtime!

Our destination: Train station in Verscio at the entrance of the Riei Valley.

This guy we saw at a goat and llama farm as we got off the bus at the start of our hike.

Our hike for today: Starting in the Onsernone Valley, hiking the South flank of the "Terre di Pedemonte" to the back of the Riei Valley, then back out along the Riei River with a detour to the Oratorio Sant'Anna, before heading down to Verscio to catch the train back to Locarno and through the super tunnel back home.