Clavau Irrigation Channel in the Vineyards near Sion

(Post published on March 31, 2024)

Saturday March 12, 2016 -- It doesn’t always have to be green to be remarkable as we found out in this, our second hike in the miles and miles of vineyards in the Rhône Valley near Lake Geneva.

Last year in fall we were in the Terraces of the Lavaux among a sea of yellows, and this time it was all brown but stunning just the same with the snow-capped Alps in the background, and the impressive dry-stone walls forming terraces as far as the eye can see. Our 2-hour walk along Trail no.36: "Chemin du Vignoble" (Vineyard Trail) and the terraces here took us from the village of St. Leonard up to the the Clavau irrigation Channel and toward the city of Sion with its ruins of the Chateau Tourbillon on a prominent hill always in our sights. After reaching Sion, we spent another couple of hours visiting the city and the ruins, as well as the fabulous Valère Basilica, the city's main landmark (built in 12th and 13th Centuries).

There are over 50 varieties of grapes planted here, some of them the only place in the world where they are grown. The terraces are extraordinary, as all the walls are dry stone (no mortar), and at one point the 16m high wall boasts to be the highest dry-stone wall in the world.

There was one small disappointment for me: I always photograph the information panels, but rarely read them on the spot (only after, when I do my blog entries) and this time missed a unique feature of the Basilica: A 15th Century organ which is the oldest organ in the world which can still be played. (It was so small that I didn't even notice it!)

From the train station in St.Léonard, we first had to make our way through the town and up the hill to reach the Clavau irrigation channel. We started at about noon.

Heading uphill through the streets of St.Léonard

I always enjoy these interesting gargoyle rain spouts!

The town has some very attractive retaining walls.

A look back across the roofs of St.Léonard and the Rhône Valley

In all we walked about 3½ hours although the section along Trail no.36: "Chemin du Vignoble" (Vineyard Trail) was only about two hours.

Through this ravine flows the Liène River from Lac de Tseuzier, to enter the Rhône River at St.Léonard.

A look back at St.Léonard as we reach the irrigation channel trail.

A zoomed view of the church in St.Léonard

Looking down the steep vineyard into the ravine of La Liène river.

Many looks behind us eastward as we head westward.

It is always a pleasure to walk along the irrigation channels, particularly when the water is flowing!

Far in the distance to the west we can already see the prominent hill of Sion city with the ruins of the Tourbillon Chateau.

The snow-covered peaks looming behind the terraces are simply magnificent

Every possible space is used for growing the vines!

Vineyards as far as the eye can see!

Coffee break. Below is the Rhône River.

To build these terraces, the vintners first shaved off the cliff faces, used the larger rocks as base for the walls, and the smaller rocks were piled meters high. Then the space between the walls and the cliff face was filled with rocks and fertile soil.

Exceptional work to create these terraces. Also a good view of the Tourbillon Castle Ruins.

These vineyards "Vignoble de la Cotsetta" ("Little Lost Corner") cover 3 hectares and include 3 hectares of dry stone walls built between 1890 and 1900, some as high as 16 m. The spot on the photo with the arrow claims to be the highest dry-stone wall in the world!

The House of Robert Gilliard has been looking after the upkeep of all of these walls, as they are a cultural heritage.

Approaching the city of Sion (or Sitten, which is its German name).

Looking directly south now at the ruins of Chateau Tourbillon annd we are getting the first glimpse of the Notre Dame Basilica.

A reminder that this is wine country!

A look at the ruins from below as we enter the city of Sion

That is both a Chateau and a Basilica. It is known as Valère. It is considered a fortified church, although the walls encompass a small village as well.

Other interesting buildings in the city of Sion

Churches in Old Town Sion

Making our way through the city of Sion so we can climb up to the Chateau de Valère.

Heading up the Valère Basilica

On the trail up to the church at the Chateau de Valère we now see the Tourbillon castle ruins from the south.

I photographed the information panel to read up on the history later, but should have paid more attention, as they mentioned the unique organ, the oldest playable organ in the world! I didn't even notice it when we were in the church.

Inside the 12th-Century romanesque Notre Dame Church at Valère.

Details of the inside of the church (The photo of the organ is by Berra39 in WikiCommons). The famous organ was installed in the 1430's, and is the oldest original still playable organ in the world.

A close look at the ruins of Chateau Tourbillon, where we are headed next (we had to walk back a bit, then up on the other hill)

Heading back down this first hill, we pass the "Chapelle de Tout-les-Saints", built in 1325, and restored in 1964

From the other hill (where the Tourbillon Castle ruins are), this is the view to the Valère Basilica (and the little "All-Saints" chapel on the left).

Sitting on the old rampart walls of the Tourbillon Castle.

Some history of Chateau de Tourbillon: Start of construction was approx. in the year 1300. The castle was set on fire and torn down in 1417, but rebuilt in the same Century, and kept its appearance till the 18th Century. Another fire in 1788, which destroyed about 1/3rd of the city of Sion, also destroyed the castle, which was never rebuilt.