The Old Market Route at the far end of the Centovalli

Wednesday November 28 -- Another mild day in Canton Ticino, although we are finding it hard to find suitable walking trails for this time of year, that we haven't already done!

At the far end of the "always worthwhile for a trip" Centovalli (although at this time of year lots of shade because the valley is so deep) near the Italian border are several villages on the sunny hillside, villages we hadn't discovered yet, which lie along what was apparently the old market trail from Camedo to Verdasio to Intragna near Locarno.

Starting at 10:30 in the still-in-the-shade village of Camedo near the Italian border, it didn't take long till we emerged into the sun just above that village, and from there it was a mild and not even strenuous hike up to Borgnone, then Costa, and through some slippery wooded trails to Lionza. All these tiny villages have so many quaint alleys and marvelously built stone houses and artistic churches, there is so much to look at. 

The last leg toward Verdasio was on a very pleasant trail where we ran into a trail blockade: Closed because the bridge needed repair. I can't count anymore how often we have come across trail blockades this year, but in this case we didn't want to turn back, and we have passed much more difficult sections than a wooden bridge with a few slats missing.... for example the river between Costa and Lionza that was very difficult to pass, and no bridge there at all!

Riding the Centovalli Train from Locarno toward Camedo. The journey passes through several villages with churches such as this one in Verscio.

Crossing the Isorno River at Intragna and heading into the Centovalli. This view is to the East (Cimetta, Cardada), where we started. This part is in shadow for most of the day in winter.

Camedo (start of our hike), just this side of the Italian border, is in shade for most of the day because it is low in the valley.

(Here is the same favourite spot when we came here with friends!)

At the top of the village of Camedo is the church, and slightly higher, the promise of sunshine!

We could have continued to Verdasio in 20 more minutes, but its train station is another 20 minutes on the opposite side. And we've been to Verdasio about 3-4 times now.

The first village: Borgnone: Wonderful sunshine!

Borgnone basically consists of a church and a small alley with houses on each side. 

Borgnone basically consists of a church and a small alley with houses on each side. 

From Borgnone, this wonderful view West across the border to Italy and the Alps behind Domodossola

Our next goal: straight uphill to Costa. Here it looks like there used to be a set of stairs going up from the road, but someone just walled it up, including the sign post. But we could see the trail marker above, so we just climbed the wall. Turns out the start of the trail is now at a residence to the left of here. 

Heading straight up the hill to Costa (160m) this is the view down to the Church in Borgnone, and Verdasio in the background (near the end of our hike)

Village of Costa way up on the hill, lots of sunshine up here!

Turns out that's not a wall I'm sitting on, but a very wobbly pile of rocks, not yet cleverly stacked into a solid wall!

From Costa we get a view down to the next village of Lionza, and in the back is Verdasio, but we headed down to the railway line just before that village

Heading from Costa through the forest toward Lionza, our next stop.

We came across a wild stream with no bridge and slippery rocks, it took us a while to find a good place to cross. This was harder to cross than the broken bridge we cam across later.

Looking behind us to the village of Costa where we just came from

Lionza, another lovely village with lots of old (1696) Rustico buildings, but also new and renovated ones.

Sat on a wall and enjoyed this view while drinking thermos coffee. Across the valley is the village of Palagnedra, which is the name of the railway station where we ended our hike, but quite some distance below!

 

"Suburb" of Lionza. I love these villages

Chiesa di Sant'Antonio da Padova in Lionza

Chiesa di Sant'Antonio da Padova in Lionza. From here it was down through a good forest trail all the way to the Palagnedra train station, about 200 altitude meters lower.

"Attention: Bridge closed because it's dangerous. Will be repaired in Spring 2019". But we couldn't wait that long, so we passed. We've crossed more difficult sections of trails!

Centovalli train heading to Camedo. We'll catch it on its way back from the border and enjoy another 30 minutes of sunshine here at the little station in Palagnedra!

A logical extension to this tour would be Verdasio (40 minutes more to its train station), but we've been through that village three times already, so we ended our tour at the train station called Palagnedra

Centovalli is near the Italian border

We have covered lots of ground in this area!

Continuing on the Senda Sursilvana Trail from Disentis

Wednesday November 21 -- The only place with a little sunshine in the forecast was in the Vorderrhein Valley, high in the Alps where the Rhine River has its source near Andermatt, so we planned a walk along the Senda Sursilvana trail (also part of the St.James Trail or Jakobsweg), continuing where we left off last time... But although it was OK for a train ride, by the time we started on our walk it was cold and uncomfortable. Plus the alpine landscape in its in-between stage (not summer, not fully snowed-over) is simply bleak and dreary, especially when the clouds pull over the sky, which is what ended up happening.

The highlight of the town of Disentis is St. Martin's Abbey, which we'd never been in before so that was the plan, which as it turns out will have to wait another year or two because apparently they have been renovating the monastery since 2016. (History: first construction in the year 700, and refurbished in the current Baroque style in the 17th century. Cost of the renovation is about 15 million Francs)

Since we'd already come this far, we went on our planned walk, parallel to the Rhine River (here called the Vorderrhein in German and Rein Anteriur in the local Raetoromanisch language) but we only completed about 8 km before getting back on the train heading home through the Rhine Gorge, which is the site of one of the largest landslides in the World's History that happened about 10,000 years ago (we have walked the gorge trail a few years ago)

I will wait till summer again to continue on this trail, it's just more enjoyable....

Our excursion started with a train ride South along the Reuss Valley toward Göschenen. This village of Wassen is always a treat to view out of the train window

 

From Göschenen a steep cogwheel train takes you up to Andermatt, a popular ski resort, from where the train winds back and forth to the Oberalp Pass. This view is across Andermatt to the SW along the Ursuren Valley.

Heading East toward the Oberalp Pass

Along Lake Oberalpsee. The Pass is straight ahead, in the sun. And not far from there is Lake Tomasee, the source of the Rhine River

Lake Oberalpsee at the Oberalp Pass. For now, the weather looks promising!

Approaching Disentis, the start of our hike, with its Baroque Church, currently under renovation.This location is 900m lower than the Pass, thus less snow....

Not possible to view the inside of St.Martin's because of renovations

Walking parallel to the young Rhine River, here called Vorderrhein or Rein Anteriur. This trail is part of St. James Trail, Grisons portion.

We passed through a couple of small villages. This one, Cumpadials, was the end of the hike for us, only 8 km from Disentis.

Antique Fire Engine on skis

Cumpadials, Canton Graubünden (Grisons)

We got to the station with just one minute to spare, which is how we usually manage it. 

Getting back on the Rhätian Railway train to continue toward Chur along the Rhine Gorge

This Gorge is only accessible on foot or by train. It is the site of one of the largest landslides in the World's History

The Rhine Gorge (Ruinaulta) near Versam

 

Following the Rhine River (Vorderrhein)

The sign indicates the High Water Mark in July 1987. This is shortly before Tamins

This was the third section of the Senda Sursilvana Trail that we have done. Both other times were also in late Fall / Winter. Next section will be in Spring, when the meadow flowers are blooming!

Second Time on the Olive Trail along Lago di Lugano (Lake Lugano)

Wednesday November 14 -- With my unfathomable inability to properly download or read a bus schedule, we once again had to resign ourselves to a Plan B, in this case a repeat of a short and easy walk we did in early Spring, but nevertheless pleasant, warm and enjoyable.

The original plan was to cross the border into Italy near Lugano on Lake Lugano (in the direction of Lake Como) to visit some Italian villages and castles on the sunny hillside there. But because the buses across the border are few and far between, taking the next one (after waiting at the wrong bus stop and watching our bus pass by not 100m from where we were standing) meant starting too late in the afternoon. But no matter, as we had just walked for 5 km around the city of Lugano, so starting from Gandria just this side of the border and walking back to Lugano (another 5 km) along the pleasant Olive Trail was just fine.

This North side of Lake Lugano has such a wonderfully sunny exposure that it is almost like being on the Mediterranean: Once again, as the flatlands in the North wallowed in fog, we were walking in short sleeves and the equivalent of shorts, just a 3-hour ride from home.

Last time we were here we learned a lot about olive cultivation, and this time we even got to see them harvesting.... bringing down the olives with toy-sized rakes. It was kind of weird....

Cattedrale di San Lorenzo, just below the train station in Lugano. We started with a visit to this cathedral

I've seen St.Peter's in the Vatican, and this is just as impressive, minus the masses of tourists!!!

Just as beautiful as St.Peter's in the Vatican!

Heading to the lake through the sloping streets of Lugano

Fine foods in Lugano

This unassuming church (Chiesa Santa Maria degli Angioli) in the middle of banks and hotels contains a famous mural painted in the Renaissance period.

This huge mural painted by Bernardino Luini (contemporary of Leornardo da Vinci) in 1529 is the most famous fresco of the Renaissance period in Switzerland

We walked along the lakefront past the palace and the park on the right, where we caught a bus to Gandria, 5 km further along the lake, and walked back again.

Just like when we were in Sicily

Walking along the lakeshore in the warm sunshine with a view to the distinctive profile of Monte San Salvatore

 

Walking through the Olive Groves of Gandria (in the background are the villages in Italy we had originally planned on visiting)

This is how olives are harvested

Olives are apparently not edible unless they are marinated

Gandria on Lake Lugano

Walking through the cool corridors of Gandria on the Olive Trail

 

This is my favourite place along the lakeshore trail

So warm we can walk in short-sleeves and no leggings

 

Along the way are public gardens called "The Olive Gardens" built on a steep hillside with many terraces and benches, where one can spend a peaceful afternoon

This has happened to us many times this year. Officially, the trail continues on the other side of the gate, which is locked. We had planned to continue upwards from the Olive Garden, but had to go back to the lakeshore path.

Lake Lugano on a mid-November afternoon.

Absolutely incredible, this is also Switzerland, mid-November

This fancy fence impressed me

This is like the Mediterranean: Palm trees, Cypress and Pine

Almost back at the starting point where we caught the bus to Gandria = 5 km (Lugano Castagnola)

Perfect timing to head home: The sun is just about to go down on Lake Lugano and Monte San Salvatore

First 5 km: Started at the train station and walked to to Lugano Castagnola. Second 5 km: Started in Gandria and walked back to Lugano Castagnola.